RE: Torqueflite adjustments

[Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I took a good look at my kickdown assembly. As I move it to the rear, it 
hits the firewall. Can anyone recommend an aftermarket assembly that 
will fit my 64 with a 383 and one 4-barrel? Thanks/Butch/Ferndale, WA


W.A. Edison wrote:
> 
> Herb, it will be weeks before I work on the transmission, but would like 
> to query you on another quirky thing about this torqueflite. It's a 
> floor shift. When I push the shift lever from 1st to 2nd, it does not 
> shift until I push the shift lever about 1/8" more. Same from 2nd to 
> drive and drive to neutral. Is this something I adjust outside the 
> transmission? Thanks/Butch/Ferndale, WA
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Herb [mailto:zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx] 
> Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 10:46 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: B body disc brake
> 
> 
> 
> As far as shifting have someone hold the accelerator to the floor and 
> adjust
> the kickdown rod so it is all the way back with no slack.  It should 
> shift
> at 25 & 35 under normal acceleration.  Even though it's been welded on 
> if it
> shifts at about the right speed you should be OK.  When you get the time 
> or
> energy to re-pull the tranny pan do your adjustments then and drain the
> converter.  If you pull the dust cover from the front of the tranny and 
> turn
> the engine over by hand or tapping the starter you will see a drain plug 
> on
> the converter through a hole in the flywheel.  Pull that plug and you 
> will
> get up to about ten quarts of fluid out of it depending on it's size and 
> of
> course what you get out of the pan.  When you get around to doing it we 
> can
> cover it more in depth and a quick way to adjust the bands.  (-;
> 
> 
> 
>           
> 
>  Herb 
> 
>  
> 
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
> 
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
> 
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 
> 1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale
> 
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9
> 
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
> 
> St. Louis, MO.
> 
>  
> 
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
> 
>   
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -------Original Message-------
> 
>  
> 
> From: Butch Edison
> 
> Date: 1/16/2010 11:11:14 AM
> 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> 
> Subject: RE: B body disc brake
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks Herb. I used rubber bushings on this car. I have a set of polys 
> that
> I'm going to use on my other one, just to see if I notice a difference. 
> This
> car has the original ball & trunnion U-joint setup, so will hazard a 
> guess
> that this was the original (or at least correct) transmission for the 
> car.
> 
>  
> 
> The magnet was a dollar sized washer, which sounds right per your note. 
> No,
> I didn't adjust the bands (arghh) because when I saw the metal burrs 
> (all
> very small strands), I figured "just stop the leaks and have it 
> rebuilt".
> The linkage has been welded on at least once, so that looks like a good
> opportunity to make the thing shift correctly. I'll post a different 
> note on
> that, so I don't screw up this thread. Appreciate the follow-on remarks
> about the pads. Can't wait for the rain to stop so I can get it out on 
> the
> road for a few hundred miles!
> 
>  
> 
> /Butch/Ferndale, WA
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: Herb [mailto:zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> 
> Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 2:45 AM
> 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> 
> Subject: RE: B body disc brakes
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Congrats!  Had the same experience with my 63 Sport Fury restoring the 
> front
> 
> & rear suspension!  Did you use rubber or poligraphite bushings?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 727s came with a magnet about the size of a thick silver dollar with a 
> hole
> 
> in it in the pan and don't be too worried about the chia look!!  That is
> 
> just normal wear & tear.  Tranny shops have been scarring people for 
> years,
> 
> just like you did yourself, by showing customers the metal flakes in the 
> pan
> 
> or on the magnet while shaking their heads and wondering how they made 
> it to
> 
> the shop!!  Now, if you have big chunks that's a different story.  The
> 
> shifting correctly problem is more than likely your kickdown linkage.  
> If
> 
> adjusted correctly, under normal acceleration, it should shift at 25 & 
> 35
> 
> MPH.  Did you adjust your bands when you had the pan off?  Now's a great
> 
> time to ask he says to him self... (-;  Before I speculate any more what 
> is
> 
> the shift problem?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> You probably wont feel the front or rear applying unless your way off.  
> Do a
> 
> couple of panic stops and make sure the rear is not locking up before 
> the
> 
> front.  Also expect to go through two or three sets of front pads to a 
> set
> 
> of rear shoes over time.  If not too much rear braking.  Front should do
> 
> about 80% of the braking.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> What say you?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>          
> 
>  
> 
>   Herb
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
> 
>  
> 
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 
>  
> 
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
> 
>  
> 
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 
>  
> 
> 1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale
> 
>  
> 
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9
> 
>  
> 
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
> 
>  
> 
> St. Louis, MO.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -------Original Message-------
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Butch Edison
> 
>  
> 
> Date: 1/16/2010 12:04:06 AM
> 
>  
> 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> 
>  
> 
> Subject: RE: B body disc brakes
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Well, this part of the car's restoration is done. All new suspension in 
> the
> 
> rear, restored steering coupler and power steering, restored front end
> 
> linkage A-to-Z, disc brake conversion complete. It may quit along the
> 
> highway somewhere, but it's safe to drive now and very pleasurable to 
> drive
> 
> as well. The front end tech said it dialed in like a dream and it rides 
> like
> 
> one too. No more leaks from the engine or tranny oil pan. Now.... on to 
> the
> 
> A727. It doesn't shift correctly and when I had the pan off, found that 
> the
> 
> previous owner had put a magnet in the pan and it looked like a chia 
> brillo
> 
> pad with all the steel particles on it.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> If there is anything odd, it is that the proportioning valve is wide 
> open,
> 
> yet the car stops like I'd expect it to. I thought I'd have too much 
> back
> 
> braking with the valve open all the way. I'll drive it some, then start
> 
> cutting fluid to the back brakes to see what happens. I have not done 
> any
> 
> hard stops yet. Should I actually feel the fronts apply first?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> /Butch/Ferndale, WA
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ----
> 
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not 
> to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to 
> Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
> 
>  
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www
> 1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ----
> 
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not 
> to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to 
> Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
> 
>  
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www
> 1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the 
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
> 
> 



1964 Plymouth Sport Fury (red), 440, A727
1964 Plymouth Sport Fury (white) 383, A727
1937 Plymouth coupe, 340, A727


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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