Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices

[Doug Daniel <dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx>]

will all  this work on a C body ? 65 dodge monaco 

--- On Sat, 12/19/09, Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers and prices
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 11:18 AM
> 
> I'm with Steve on this one. OEM is the best way to
> go.  I've done at least 5 brake swaps from front drums
> to disks on Mopars in the past few years. Mostly A bodies,
> and 1 B body.  I like the slider types with 10.87"
> rotors. I usually just buy parts (master cylinder, hoses,
> calipers for a 73 Dart). All were manual drum/disk.
> 
> On early A bodies, you just need to bring over the UCAs
> with the spindles/rotors/bearings/calipers.  The early
> A drum UCA uses a small BJ, the later UCAs (73+) use the
> large pattern BJ.
> I've used the A body spindle AND I've used the F/J/M
> spindles  (diplomat  or 5th Ave).  I noticed
> virtully NO difference in the ride or performance with
> either spindle.  I have also run the calipers in the
> front and the calipers behind the spindles, again, no
> difference.  Just the brake line routing is
> different.....same hose.   Moving the
> calipers to the back can buy you more room for an
> aftermarket sway bar.  I like to run Addco 1 1/8" bars.
> cheeeeep and super solid.  The early and later B bodies
> use the heavier BJ, so no UCA swap is required.
> 
> Any swap can be done badly.  I've got a 65 Coronet
> rolling chassis.  The previous owner swapped it over to
> disks, while complete "rebuilding" the front
> end.   I just looked quickly, but someone did
> a crap job on the swap. The rotors are cut too thin, and
> have re-rusted.  1 stud is loose in 1 rotor.  I
> removed the dust caps, and the spindle nut didn't have a
> retainer ORa cotter pin!.....that nut could just walk right
> off, and there goes the wheel!  The whole job is
> suspect.  Its amazing how much of a F-up some people's
> work is.
> 
> My parts usage on a typical swap;
> 
> At the parts counter, I will tell them the vehicle is a
> 1973 Dodge Dart for: Rotors/bearings/hoses and master
> cylinder.  Note: You need to make sure you have the
> proper drum/disk pushrod.
> For the calipers, I have used:  73 Dart
> (4067-4068)  $37 plus $60 core at Rock
> Auto!   or  78 Aspen (4103-4104) 
> $22 plus $30 core at Rock Auto. CAREFUL HERE;  the
> difference between the two different part number is the
> piston bore.  the 73 Dart uses a 2.6" bore, the later
> Aspen/diplomat/5th ave uses a 2.75"
> bore.   The 2.75" bore calipers are; more
> plentiful, cheaper, and give more stopping
> power.   The proportioning valves are
> available new as repops for ~ $90.  worth buying new
> here or OR use a 73 Dart .  The prop. body style
> changed from a brass one, to a cast iron one in 1975 on the
> darts.  The later F/J/Ms used the cast iron valves
> too.    It really depends on the look you want.
> 
> Once I got a set of R/L calipers for a 73 Dart.  I had
> everything put together, and the car pulled to the right
> when braking.  I rechecked EVERYTHING....still
> pulled.  I eventually found I was sent one 2.6" bore
> and one 2.75" bore caliper!!!!
> 
> 
> For more info on prop valves, go to the MP brakes website
> and read up.  Its actually a combination valve.
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:01 PM
> Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with
> part numbers and prices
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > Steve,
> > 
> > I hear ya on this part! Here's a link to my 64 Polara
> convertible right after I did the swap on it in August.
> > http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21824735
> > The pics there show exactly what happens when you use
> the cheapo Advance Auto brake holddown hardware. I replaced
> it all with TWO sets of NAPA parts. No more climbing
> calipers...
> > 
> > Mark
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Charette"
> <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 6:48:35 PM GMT -05:00
> US/Canada Eastern
> > Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read
> with part numbers and prices
> > 
> > 
> > "One note from personal experience - get good quality
> (read that Made in USA)
> > caliper hold-down hardware. Only a couple bucks more
> than imported stuff
> > that I have had problems with in the past - consider
> the prospect of the
> > caliper jumping up out of the bracket over bumps. Not
> cool. "
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > 
> > 
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person --  directly to that person. 
> I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended recipient,
> not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and
> fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> > 
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
>