Re: fusible links vs fuses

[Ollie <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Very Good...reason I personally don't like or use fuseable links. Also the 
best reason to remove the amp gauge from a old Mopar. Most junkyard Mopars 
have had some sort of electrial fire.

Circuit breaker types are a bit more expensive, just don't over wire and 
nothing better than a fuse.
Ollie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: fusible links vs fuses



Very good question, I'll give an answer however I would hope anyone with
additional information would also comment:

FUSE
It is easily replaced and fits in a fuse holder.  Most fuses have a
metal link that will melt on an overload then the fuse must be replaced.
Some fuses but not typically automotive are slow-blow that will stand
an overload for a short period of time without blowing.

FUSIABLE LINK
Is in the basic form is just a section of wire that is smaller than the
main wire.  If there is an overload the small section of wire will burn
open protecting the circuit.  The advantage of a fusiable link is that
it is simple and it will withstand a short duration over current
condition without blowing.  The disadvantage is that if it blows either
the section with the fusiable link will need to be replaced or the
entire cable.  Another big disadvantage is that if the short is a "dead
short" the current will be so high that when the link opens it literally
explodes.  One of the automotive wiring sites has a picture of a
fusiable link opening, it can damage other wires or paint.

If anyone has the link to the exploding fusiable link please post it.

CIRCUIT BREAKER
You didn't ask but they are also used on our cars.  A typical place is
for head lights.  When there is an overload it opens the circuit, it
cools off for a few moments then auto resets.  If the overcurrent
condition still exists the lights will go on and off until they are
turned off or the problem is corrected.

A big problem with our cars is that ALL of the alternator current flows
through the bulkhead connector to the amp gauge then most of the current
back through the bulkhead connectors.  This may result in damaged amp
gauge and bulkhead connectors.  There is detailed information on a
number of sites for correcting this.

http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

I took a simple but I think effective approach, I ran a new wire with a
fuseable link from the alternator to the large post on the starter
relay.  This effectively bypasses the amp gauge.

This is a great and important subject, if anyone has addtional
information please post.

Dennis C.

waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> What is the difference between a fuse and a fusible link?
> Thanks/Butch/Ferndale, WA
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 10:19:03 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada
> Pacific
> Subject: Automotive Wire Source - Thanks
>
>
> Thanks for all of the suggestions. Â
>
> My first will be the engine compartment wiring, the shop manual gives
> the wire size and color for all wires. Â I just need to make a drawing
> that includes all of my changes before I start. Â I have an old harness
> with the bulkhead connectors. Â
>
> I really like the idea of replacing the under dash wiring but I may try
> to just change or add another fuse block for now.
>
> Thanks Again
> Dennis C.
>
> 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Van Conversion
> 1964 Plymouth Belvedere 318 Auto
> 1963 Plymouth Sport Fury 383 4-speed
> 1949 Dodge Pickup 289/C4 soon to be changed
> 1998 Honda Valkyrie Standard
>
>
> ---- 
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> directly to that person. Â I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic. Â Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Van Conversion
1964 Plymouth Belvedere 318 Auto
1963 Plymouth Sport Fury 383 4-speed
1949 Dodge Pickup 289/C4 soon to be changed
1998 Honda Valkyrie Standard


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations 
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to 
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, 
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar 
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

This email was sent to: arc.6265@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

u/?bUrDWg.bSONJP.YXJjLjYy



?p=TEXFOOTER