RE: Monster MoPar Video

[Rich Kinsley <rlkinsley@xxxxxxxxx>]

Is your engine one of the 451 strokers with that crank?

Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
====================================================================
mike creglow wrote:
> 
> Hi Steve,
> 
> I apologize for the delay, but there was an issue at work that
> required my attention. =A0This is a long response, but you did ask for
> it.
> 
> My first rule is that if you cannot put the power to the ground you
> are wasting your money. =A0That said, the old MoPar Chassis manual is a
> wealth of information if you want performance out of a leaf spring
> car. =A0There are some tricks in the front suspension that will help
> with lift and weight transfer. =A0I'm using the MoPar drag torsion bars,
> although I've been told that the 'B' body 6 cyl torsion bars are
> better if you can find a good set. =A0I'm using Calvert 90/10 drag
> shocks -- for $100 they are a good deal and work really well. =A0Also, I
> try and make the shocks as long as possible by stacking washers on the
> bottom side of the inner fender, and remove the upper control arm bump
> stops. =A0Refer to the following URL:
> 
> http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=3Dview¤t=3DI=
> MGP0770.jpg
> 
> This combination causes the front of the car to lift ~3/4" more then
> usual and will transfer weight to the rear wheels where you want it.
> Last but not least are the alignment angles to use to correct bump
> steer or toe change due to front suspension travel. You can achieve 1
> 1/2 degrees positive caster and 1/4 degree positive camber -- it
> corrects the toe pattern to within an 1/8 inch total toe change
> throughout the suspension travel. =A0I run 29" tall tires up front.
> 
> Next is the rear suspension. =A0I have moved the front and rear leaf
> spring hangers on the frame rails to accommodate larger tires (I also
> mini-tubbed the wheel wells by 3"). =A0 I use p3412002 and p3412003
> MoPar SS springs (A-Body) as they are best at controlling spring wrap
> up and torque roll. These springs are stiffer and .300 thick vs. the
> standard .250. =A0Two clamps should also be installed just behind the
> passenger front spring eye and one clamp all the way back on the
> driver's side rear segment. =A0Refer to the following URLs:
> 
> http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=3Dview¤t=3DI=
> MGP0771.jpg
> http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/tt41/mcreglow/?action=3Dview¤t=3DI=
> MGP0775.jpg
> 
> I use 12-way adjustable QA1 1539 rear shocks. =A0Also, note that by
> moving the leaf springs on the frame rails will effectively make the
> shocks longer. =A0The pinion angle for the street is 4 degrees and 5 to
> 7 degrees for the track. =A0I do not use a pinion snubber -- I adjust
> the clamps on the front segments for that control. =A0These stock
> suspensions will overwork the tire, so on good hooking tracks you need
> to stiffen the shocks, add tire pressure, and add clamps to the rear
> leaf spring segments to calm the car down which will lower 60 ft
> times. =A0When you install SS springs you will notice that there is more
> arch in the pass side spring vs. the drivers side. Raise the driver's
> side front with the torsion bar adjuster to lower the pass side rear
> corner to level the car side to side front and rear keeping a 2 to 3
> degree nose down attitude at the sill. This preloads the right rear
> tire to help control torque roll in the rear axle. =A0I am running
> 10.5Wx31" tall M/T slicks on 10" steel rims with 5 3/4" offset on a
> narrowed Dana 60 (4.88 gears). =A0The old adage tall tires and steep
> gears is applied here.
> 
> Drive train:
> Motor: 400 block with 4.15" Eagle crank, Eagle 440 connecting rods,
> Ross forged pistons (12.5 compression), gap-less rings, Cam Motion
> custom grind mech flat tappet cam (.640"
> lift/ 283 duration @ 50), Indy SR heads that have been ported to max
> wedge size (valves
> 2.19/1.81), Indy single plane intake, Holley dominator (8896), MSD
> ignition system
> w/ digital 6-plus, crank triggered ignition, TTI 2"/2 1/8" step headers.
> 
> Transmission: A-727 w/ Griner reverse pattern valve body, Ultimate
> (A Lopo understudy) 5100 stall converter, bolt in sprag, stock gear set,
> ultra-bell.
> 
> hopefully I answered your questions,
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 2:02 PM, Steve Mick <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
> wrote:
> > Hi Mike, to me that is amazing the launch you are getting =A0with your 
> > se=
> t up.
> > I am planning and building a 1964 dodge 440 two dr hdt for street and
> > occasional strip. 413 and 4 speed, 3.55 rear gear.1/8 mile. =A0I expect 
> > y=
> ours
> > is a 440. Could you tell me your basics on the engine =A0and how you 
> > hook=
>  up
> > like that? =A0I would guess a close pinion snubber ? What torsion bars? 
> > s=
> ize
> > and width of slicks? If you can find the time to answer all this, it 
> > woul=
> d
> > be much appreciated.............Steve



Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies


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