John pretty much covered the method...and the mess of this process. The
only difference I did was to use a plastic bottle that can be pressurized.
Like what one would use to spray bug killer or plant food. It has a
pretty good nozzle and is like a wand. I filled this with POR 15 and
sprayed through the firewall opening and the opening in the PSNGR side
fender area. Make sure to tape EVERYTHING off and then tape it again.
Put on your Hazard suit (old clothes) because you will get POR 15 on ya.
Hope this helps...
Christopher Glick
1964 Dodge 440 2 DR Hardtop
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hammond <426_maxwedge@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 08:55:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: Air inlet. A LITTLE BIT OF HELP
Like was mentioned earlier they ain't much access but here's what I did.
It
may not be ideal for a nice car,
but if thoughts of rust keep you from sleeping - while it never rests,
maybe
this will give some peace of mind.
I just went through this on my 330 wagon which some might call a RatRod.
'Bout all that's ratlike about it is
a really nice satin black coat of catalyzed paint not primer.
Top center on the firewall locate oval body plug and remove it. This
will allow some access to vacuume
whatever the smallest diameter hose you can find will get to. Leave plug
out. Using masking tape, tape firewall
flap into a open position, if your passenger fender is off... vacuume out
drain area and repete process with flap
if still hanging there. Operate interrior air controls so that vent is
open
and air is directed toward floor.
Moving back to the cowl vent at base of windshield, starting on
passenger side, using overlapping strips of
tape, thouroghly tape shut the slots all the way across to the drivers
side
but leave the last 3 or so open. Using
a blow gun on a pressurized air hose direct stream of air into the open,
drivers side slots. Long, skinny, bug-
sprayer type might work well, but I just had the regular, depress-lever
type. By the way, you are about to make a
huge mess, don't put that shop vac away just yet. Leaves, trash, dust,
sand,
silt, dead critters, and all manner of
vileness should spew forth from openings like deacons exiting a house of
ill-repute during a police raid. Please
note that some of this is going into the interrior of the vehicle.
Continue
this process by using the center firewall
opening and also sometimes reinserting the plug for extra puke pushin'
pressures. When you think you've got as
much as is available to be removed: vacuume extensively.
Remove tape from cowl vent and then cover forward carpets with heavy
plastic. Make sure that area from the
firewall and ALL forward areas are well protected for the next step. POR
is
really too heavy bodied for this, but
using a quart of Rust-O-Leum in your choice of color....(I like #7777
Satin
Black) . Get the largest cattle syringe
you can buy at a Tractor Supply or Co-Op. install that big diameter needle
and suck it full of your well stirred paint.
Starting at the top of the first driver's side slot, slowly flow the paint
over the floor surface of the the vent. There's a
lotta slots and by moo-ving (couldn't resist), up and down & working your
way across to the passenger side you can get
a large portion coated. The plastic on the interrior floor is there in
case
the paint finds a pinhole you haven't and it
most likely will. Remember the dusty mess you just cleaned up? Shortly
you'll have paint finding its way to the floor.
A bunch of newspapers under the rockers near the drain will help with
the mess bound to occur. It seems as if there
may be a rust incubator on the drivers side of the vent well floor. I had
a
puddle of paint on both sides of the car. The
drivers side seemed to come from the rearward section of the fenderwell.
The other location that you will notice a
flood will be from the firewall flap area. Just wipe up occasionally
during
the proceedure and remove any residual
with a mild solvent before it dries, wax away any stubborn areas after
dry.
Obviously several days of dry time are in
order after this since "pouring on the paint" is kind of an
understatement.
I have not noticed any problems with drains becomming clogged by use
of this method... that said, this is a ham-
fisted attempt and messsssy - so try this at your own discretion. In my
case, I located some underdash areas to fill, and
water exists much faster on the now smoother vent floor. One other pretty
cool factor is that finally; that uncolorable area
is now uniform rather than dryspray and flash-rust. Good Luck with this
if
you give it a whirl, it worked well for me.
John Hammond
----- Original Message -----
From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: Air inlet.
OK !! I wondered what that flap was for.by the right door hinges. What
does the flap on the firewall do? I thought maybe there were acess panel
or take out the heater to gain access to the air plenum. Anyone have
ideas
on getting the dirt and leaves out? Looks like a breeding ground for
rust.........................MO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Gallimore" <dongallimore@xxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: Air inlet.
There is a drain flap on the passenger side of the car just in front of
the door hinges. This is the same flap as on the firewall. (reference -
'65 Belvedere)
Akron Don
________________________________
From: "Dodger7998@xxxxxxx" <Dodger7998@xxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, October 7, 2009 9:51:58 PM
Subject: Re: Air inlet.
Smile,,,,,all to often on your feet
In a message dated 10/7/2009 6:43:23 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
where does water that gets in there drain out?.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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