RE: headless 383

[Ron Soldani <ronsold102@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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When I used to do valve jobs for a Ford dealership (the competition) I used a sanding block with 80 grit to clean the block after scraping it. Used rags and tape to try to seal the cylinders prior. Then after sanding done vacuumed the cylinders. Some crud gets in the cylinders any way and in the headbolt holes. Change the oil obviously. Never had any issues with the boat anchor engines coming back after they stopped using Ford 6000 mile oil. Good luck

-----Original Message----- From: Gary H. [mailto:spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 5:56 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: headless 383


Hi all,

Anyone have hints on how to get this block ready to put a 383 head back on? Seems like a lot of crud to clean up there that will fall into the piston holes. 

Background: I pulled the head a couple years ago to fix a broken exhaust stud. Time got away, too many home and car projects, a hurricane, natural procrastination etc. It is overdue to get the car running again. See pictures here: http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/temp/383-headless-500.jpg  Click on the image for a bigger view. 

Tips appreciated. 

Thanks,
Gary H.
  


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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

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