That is the best reason to put new torsion bars on.....all else is new....best thing I ever did to mine. Its a must for our cars..been there.
Now u have 2 opinions........02+.02 = *&^%$#) Ollie----- Original Message ----- From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 5:23 PM Subject: Re: Torsion Bar Project...WOW
Bob "if it were me" with all new ball joints and bushings-tie rod ends--- Unless your car will not adust up to acceptable ride height with your current torsion bars, I would not change them . Put some heavy duty shocks on that luxury liner of yours and with all those things you are doing -it should drive like new.---Unless you are going road course racing!.......................MO ----- Original Message ----- From: <62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx>To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:38 PM Subject: RE: Torsion Bar Project...WOWThanks for filing me in.. makes sense now.. so even though my car is stock, it could possibly benifit from a torsion bar upgrade,to give a bit more "drivablity" Ollie wrote:Bob, My problem began when I pulled a 318 poly(SB) out of my 65 Satellite and replaced it with a 1972-440(BB). To compensate for the eng weight different I needed to upgrade the torsion bars immediately. At that time I did not know anything about this suspension system. (2 years later, much research, I am now an expert witness) Originally to get the vehicle aligned we had to lower the suspension system...the height adjustment... to be able to bring the camber and castor adjustments within reasonable adjustment range. We were not within specifications , but darn close. As a result of this folly my entire front end was to low. (ride height) My shocks were not getting full travel, they bottomed out hard , when that happened I was all over the road. Any speed in excess of 70 you were driving out of control, especially in any bumpy situation, risking life and limb.... but worst of all... my Mopar. I replaced the original torsion bars with .920's. (what they would have been from the factory with a Big Block) My research also told me that we have a weak tower system on our cars (upper A frame support) and they will sag. To compensate for this you need to replace the non-adjustable strut rods with adjustable ones, allowing you to drag the lower control arm fwd for castor adjustments. Even if you have not upgraded an eng...this torsion bar system is not near as tuff as a upper/lower A frame, coil spring system. We are dealing with 45 year old vehicles and u need new torsion bars and adjustable strut rods. All of this learning curve has been rough, but today it has all come together. Now keep in mind MS Cruiser does not drive like a new Challenger, we're 45 years of technology behind, but she loves to roll now.... MOPAR.....Move Over Plymouth Approaching Rapidly Ollie's 2 cents.----- Original Message ----- From: <62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx>To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 3:38 PM Subject: RE: Torsion Bar Project...WOW > > Cool results! refresh my memory.. what was the original problem? was > this to make the ride firmer when ya step on it? > Ollie wrote: >> >>>> MS Cruiser update...My torsion bar and adjustable strut rod upgrade >> is>> now finished. Complete alignment this morning. WOW !!>> Every problem I had has disappeared!! Getting full travel of my >> shocks>> now, swaying when hitting a bump is gone. Tommy was able to get >> everything within specs.>> I backed out of it at 105 mph. I had more rpm left and was >> comfortable >> with the steering. The one recommendation I would give anyone is to >> get >> this done first and not save it to one of the last projects as i did. >> I >> would also say the adj strut rods are a must. When we installed the >> rods>> and matched them to the original we were about 1/2 way in the >> adjustment. They are now pulled in all the way, no adjustment left.>> Just for info purposes..fender height ended up exactly 26" (for what >> its>> worth) >> Happy camper, Ollie >> >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> > > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > protect> your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content> signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. >----Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.----Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.