RE: MP Electronic Ignition - Ballast - Final

[laborboy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]

I think you are right--my problem is the voltage drop, a problem with my 
charging system, not the ballast resistor (I am getting a 3-voltage drop 
with accessories). As you may recall, I "jumped" the resistor thinking 
the new Mopar Perf electronic distrib and coil wasn't getting enough 
voltage. However, the Jegs rep told me to leave the resistor in the loop 
or I would risk burning out the "module" inside the distributor. 
Apparently that has now happened, as my car will not start. I hope my 
warranty is still good, and that Jegs doesn't read this site.

The ballast resistor that came with the kit is .8 ohm. 


Rich Kinsley wrote:
> 
> Can you test your BR to see what ohm rating it is? I'm curious. I 
> suspect 1.5ohms. My car runs crappy with the 1.5ohm resistor. It runs 
> good with the .8ohm BR. It actually seems better with the .8 than with 
> it bypassed.
> 
> The 3volt drop seems bad to me. At that rate you are discharging your 
> battery. Of course that's at idle and I assume it charges once you get 
> some rpm's going? Check the volyage at your battery. It shouldn't run 
> below 12volts. Usually you see 12.5 - 13.5 volts. Maybe a bit more even. 
> 
> You can pull the alt and have it tested. Mine had low output before I 
> did my upgrade.
> 
> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
> =====================================================================
> laborboy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > 
> > I was off the site for about a week due to travel and when I returned, 
> > to my great surprise, we were still talking about ballast resistors! 
> > What a wonderful site, and a great group of guys. Dennis and others, 
> > thank you for your continued research. 
> > 
> > I spoke to a Jegs rep, and asked if I needed the B.R. included in the MP 
> > 
> > 
> > kit since I also bought a separate new MP coil. He said yes, that the 
> > circuitry in the distributor needed the lower voltage or would 
> > eventually go bad. 
> > 
> > I told him about the voltage loss problem, and the car cutting out at 
> > idle: He said it was more likely a problem with my alternator or my 
> > electronic system. He also claimed that the B.R. lowered the voltage to 
> > distributor, not the coil. But I didn't understand that because the wire 
> > 
> > 
> > from the passenger side of the B.R. runs directly to the positive 
> > terminal on the coil--not to the distributor. The instructions have me 
> > hooking up the wire from the driver's side of the B.R. to the 
> > distributor box, which does not have lowered voltage. So, I was still 
> > confused. 
> > 
> > But I did run a series of voltage tests:
> > 
> > B.R. used, engine cold
> >                   B.R., drivers side   At + coil
> > -Ignition on       10.75                 3
> > -Idling            12                    6
> > -Idling w/
> >  acc on, in drive  12                    4.5
> > 
> > B.R. bypassed, engine warm
> >                   B.R., drivers side   At + coil
> > -Ignition on       10                    9.3
> > -Idling            13.8                  13
> > -Idling w/
> >  acc on, in drive  10.3                  9.7
> > 
> > I don't understand how they could have me use the B.R. with this new MP 
> > coil, because it's only getting 6 volts bypassed. Someone else here said 
> > 
> > 
> > it needs 9-11, which it is getting when bypassed. 
> > 
> > The drop in voltage is about 3v in drive with air conditioning, lights 
> > and radio on--is that excessive?
> 
> 
> 
> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies


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