My '63's front end was just worn out. Everything was sloppy. You could wiggle one front wheel without the other moving, (tie rods), all the bushings were gone, upper and lower ball joints, ect ect. After all that was replaced, it drives about 50% better. Unfortunately, it's still not great, and I'm not expecting it to drive like a new car, just like a good old one. Wish the t-bar discussion would have come up a couple summers ago. (Or maybe it did and I didn't pay attention). I realize now how dumb it was to have it all apart and not replace those. Ofcourse I'm fighting the cubic dollar limitation as well so that was part of it. It's also running on old bias ply tires, so I'm not sure how much that contributes. It just likes to follow wallows in the road. (drives great on new pavement). :-) Also wondering if adjusting the t-bars will mess up my front end alignment? I'd like it to sit just a bit higher in front. Any suggestions appreciated. Jake '63 Sport Fury 'vert ---------------------------------------- > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > From: satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Front Ends Ollie's Ramblings > Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 14:08:15 -0500 > > > > I am somewhat perplexed about the front end issues that come up here. I cannot believe that a front end is totally wore out and will cost a few thousand dollars to overhaul. > > Most our cars do not have the mileage on them to be a total disaster. > > From my 2 cent view, the only items that would normally need to be replaced would be first, the lower ball joints and second LCA bushings. The way that our cars are set up with no coil springs there is not usually that much wear and tear on the upper ball joints. The third item that may be of issue would be the A-frame bushings. Here more than likely you have just wore out rubber. A squeak that drives u crazy. As far as outer tie rod ends, they just don't go bad unless they have been run on real bad lower ball joints or severely out of line, ie toe/in out. Inner tie rods last forever, same as pitman arms and idler arm. > > All parts can be inspected. Don't let rotted cracked rubber tell you a part is bad. Take your pry bar and pipe wrench and try to more tie rod ends, pitman arms, idler arms. A good wack with a stress relieving hammer on the drag link will cause something bad to move. If there is no play.its good. Grease it and go. > > Lower ball joints and LCA bushings can be changed at home. Of course you will have to take the lower control arms to a machine shop to be pressed. > > One more bit of rambling. Change your torsion bars first before you do anything. I put this off until one of my last projects. WRONG..should have been my first act of terrorism. It will improve your Mopar so much your will think you just bought it new. > > Ollie > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > _________________________________________________________________ Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you. http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackToSchool_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1 ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.