RE: MP Electronic Ignition - Ballast - Final

[laborboy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]

I was off the site for about a week due to travel and when I returned, 
to my great surprise, we were still talking about ballast resistors! 
What a wonderful site, and a great group of guys. Dennis and others, 
thank you for your continued research. 

I spoke to a Jegs rep, and asked if I needed the B.R. included in the MP 
kit since I also bought a separate new MP coil. He said yes, that the 
circuitry in the distributor needed the lower voltage or would 
eventually go bad. 

I told him about the voltage loss problem, and the car cutting out at 
idle: He said it was more likely a problem with my alternator or my 
electronic system. He also claimed that the B.R. lowered the voltage to 
distributor, not the coil. But I didn't understand that because the wire 
from the passenger side of the B.R. runs directly to the positive 
terminal on the coil--not to the distributor. The instructions have me 
hooking up the wire from the driver's side of the B.R. to the 
distributor box, which does not have lowered voltage. So, I was still 
confused. 

But I did run a series of voltage tests:

B.R. used, engine cold
                  B.R., drivers side   At + coil
-Ignition on       10.75                 3
-Idling            12                    6
-Idling w/
 acc on, in drive  12                    4.5

B.R. bypassed, engine warm
                  B.R., drivers side   At + coil
-Ignition on       10                    9.3
-Idling            13.8                  13
-Idling w/
 acc on, in drive  10.3                  9.7

I don't understand how they could have me use the B.R. with this new MP 
coil, because it's only getting 6 volts bypassed. Someone else here said 
it needs 9-11, which it is getting when bypassed. 

The drop in voltage is about 3v in drive with air conditioning, lights 
and radio on--is that excessive?


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