RE: Sway Bars Again

[Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Please preface my reply with the usual $.02 proviso...

We did some R&D a few years back on Polyurethane and blends with graphite.  The two are essentially like oil and water and don't work and play well together.  Pure Polyurethane will squeak unless lubricated generously with teflon or an equivalent lube.  Most polyurethane manufacturers supply bushings in a harder durometer, which is great for carving corners but generally transmits more road noise to the car.  If it's just a cruiser/show poodle/drag car I prefer rubber.  I would in no case use urethane on strut rods as the function here is to limit fore-and-aft movement of the lower control arm.  The loads under braking are huge and the stress from bumps when braking are akin to hammering on the front of your k-member with a sledge... we have seen k-members cracked and broken from alot of road use with urethane bushings on the strut rods.  Again, fine if you're doing road/rally racing or dedicated drag racing, but not the plan for street use.

I'm a big fan of urethane in some applications but IMHO suspension parts would have to be a softer durometer... and in that case why not just use the less expensive rubber?

$.02 mode off.

SC

-----Original Message-----
From: Schuyler Wrobel [mailto:sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 11:56 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Sway Bars Again

${top_text_ad}
wasn't their a couple folks here that used both types of bushings?
like rubber for the ball joints and poly for the struts and maybe poly for the a-arm bushings too? I can't remember the exact combination but it sounded good at the time.

Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
  <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
FYI - I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318 and more! email me with your needs -
  <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>



On Jul 19, 2009, at 8:00 PM, Rich Kinsley wrote:

>
> Ollie is right. You can get all that stuff and not too pricey. I like 
> the poly/graphite because I think they are more durable. I know my 
> ride is pretty stiff. But I did the whole poly/.096 t-bar and extra 
> rear spring deal with the KYB's. I would back off on the T-bar if I 
> were doing it again but it's OK. My poly/graphite bushings do not 
> squeak.
> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies 
> =====================================================================
> Ollie wrote:
>>
>> My $.02..the rubber bushings are all available at NAPA for alot less 
>> than you see at these "preformance sites" Went with those. Starting 
>> the torsion bar project tomorrow and will keep you posted.
>> Ollie
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:29 PM
>> Subject: Re: Sway Bars Again
>>
>>
>>
>> Doggone-it. one good source says poly graphite  bushings give a 
>> harsher ride than rubber bushings, and another good source says  they 
>> ride like an imperial.  I am ready for all bushings replacement, 
>> don't care about blasting the curves- just dont want to feel every 
>> bump in the road. Can I have some more input 
>> please?................MO.....sw  iowa
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: "1962 to 1965 Mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:38 AM
>> Subject: Sway Bars Again
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> As far as the ride in a cruiser not a lot unless you go too heavy of 
>> a sway bar, (Here we go) in drive ability a sway bar mainly ties the 
>> front end together reducing body roll in turns and gives you a more 
>> stable feel of the road off setting the need of a heaver T-bar.  I 
>> just got the new Hot Rod in the mail today and they have an article 
>> on MoPar handling bolt-on's (What Timing!).  The article confirms 
>> what I wrote that a good set of shocks & sway bars give you a lot 
>> more gain in handling than replacing the torsion bars and springs.  
>> They went through a 67 Coronet and replaced each item step by step 
>> and ran it through a course.  The new T-bars & rear springs had a 
>> little less than a 2 MPH gain.  The shocks had a 3 MPH gain and the 
>> sway bars showed just a little less than a 4 MPH gain through the 
>> course.
>>
>> I saw some feed back that people were very happy with the ride they 
>> got with the heaver T-bars and that is the ride they were looking 
>> for.  I also saw people regret going to big so you need to really 
>> think out what your wanting your car to do before spending the hard 
>> earned dollars that we can barely spare on our cars. The point I was 
>> trying to make is if it's not broke don't fix-it & bigger is not 
>> always better, it just depends on what you use your car for.
>>
>> On my Sport Fury I used the .890 T-bars, pollygraphite bushings and a 
>> good set of gas shocks and it does in fact ride like an Imperial.  I 
>> am still debating if I am going to even install the sway bar I got 
>> for it or just leave well enough alone!  Also to heavy of a sway bar 
>> can ruin a ride on a cruiser.  My experience has been the stiffer the 
>> T bar & sway bar the harsher the ride but the better the road feel.  
>> They also pointed out in the article too stiff and the inside tire 
>> will lift off the ground in a turn.  I hate when that happens!!
>>
>> Now, on my Challenger R/T with a 440 I am using the .960 T-bars, 
>> polly-bushings, heavy sway bars F&R, wide sticky tires & performance 
>> gas shocks, it goes were ever I point it when ever I want it to.  
>> Now, for us old guys on a long trip/cruise it's just not very 
>> comfortable and you can feel it at the end of the day.  But dam it's 
>> fun to drive!!
>>
>>         
>>  Herb
>>
>> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
>> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
>> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
>> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
>> 1970 Challenger RT 440
>> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9
>> 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
>> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
>> St. Louis, MO.
>>
>> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -------Original Message-------
>>
>> From: Douglas Sutherland
>> Date: 7/17/2009 1:00:52 PM
>> To: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: RE: sway bars
>>
>> Thanks for the info Herb.
>>
>> Besides less lean in a turn, what else does a sway bar actually do 
>> for all round drive ability (non racing cruiser)?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
>>> From: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx
>>> Subject: Re: sway bars
>>> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:14:21 -0500
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The .920s are good if your looking for steer ability on a Big block
>> equipped
>>> car, want to increase your load carrying capacity or help level / 
>>> stiffen the car out on tight corners. The .960s are for road race 
>>> applications & load increasing a high option car with a RB or Hemi. 
>>> Both can slow you
>> down
>>> at the drag strip and take the driving enjoyment out of a cruiser. 
>>> .890s are good for all round driving. .810s are good for low option 
>>> 6 cylinder and A engines. Now if your drag racing with a little 
>>> street driving the 810s & 90/10 shocks are the way to go for weight 
>>> transfer. The heaver bars work the same up & down and restrict 
>>> weight transfer to the rear wheels
>> and
>>> actually unload your suspension a short distance off the line about 
>>> the
>> time
>>> you hit second letting your tires spin instead of accelerating 
>>> faster.
>> When
>>> your tires are spinning your not accelerating to your fullest 
>>> potential, ultimately slowing you down from point A to point B. The 
>>> bottom line .890s with a good set of shocks for best all round drive 
>>> ability. I would invest in a sway bar before heaver T bars unless 
>>> they needed to be replaced anyway.
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>> ----
>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
>> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune 
>> the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>>
>> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>>
>>
>> ----
>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
>> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune 
>> the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>>
>> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person
> -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune 
> the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>

${bottom_text_ad}
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

This email was sent to: arc.6265@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

u/?bUrDWg.bSONJP.YXJjLjYy



?p=TEXFOOTER