Very good question! I was leery using the poly or really urethane bushings on my car but was swayed when I was told if I did not like them they would replace them at their expense. So I figured I would spit in the face of danger and give them a try! Now the set I used this spring on my Sport Fury are urethane by Prothane, http://www.prothane.com/ and the poly graphite ones I used on my Challenger a couple of years ago (I forget the manufacturer) are possibly older technology but they really stiffened up my ride over the factory rubber ones and you feel every bump with them. Now, on my Sport Fury the manufacture of the bushings call them urethane and not poly graphite their maybe a difference in the two?!! I had planed on installing a sway bar on my Sport Fury but after the new bushings with a compleat front end overhaul it was stiff enough I left it off. I have to admit I was sure I was going to have the place I got them from replace the urethane bushings with a rubber set but I was pleasantly surprised. Another factor that comes into play is tires. On my Challenger I am using a 215 40 18 on the front and my Sport Fury a 225 70 15, the tires on the Sport Fury absorb a lot of road shock were the Challenger's do not. I hope this helps and it probably is not a good answer just some observations from the past and present. With new technology maybe they have the harsh ride bugs worked out. Back when I replaced the Challenger's bushings the big debate and complaint was squeaking and I used one of the first sets of Poly Graphite out and they did not squeak, new technology, go figure! Herb 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 1959 Coronet 326 Poly 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 1970 Challenger RT 440 1999 Durango SLT 5.9 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1 St. Louis, MO. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html -------Original Message------- From: MO ( Steve Mick) Date: 7/19/2009 7:29:58 PM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Sway Bars Again Doggone-it. one good source says poly graphite bushings give a harsher ride than rubber bushings, and another good source says they ride like an imperial. I am ready for all bushings replacement, don't care about blasting the curves- just dont want to feel every bump in the road. Can I have some more input please?................MO.....sw iowa ----- Original Message ----- From: "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: "1962 to 1965 Mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:38 AM Subject: Sway Bars Again As far as the ride in a cruiser not a lot unless you go too heavy of a sway bar, (Here we go) in drive ability a sway bar mainly ties the front end together reducing body roll in turns and gives you a more stable feel of the road off setting the need of a heaver T-bar. I just got the new Hot Rod in the mail today and they have an article on MoPar handling bolt-on's (What Timing!). The article confirms what I wrote that a good set of shocks & sway bars give you a lot more gain in handling than replacing the torsion bars and springs. They went through a 67 Coronet and replaced each item step by step and ran it through a course. The new T-bars & rear springs had a little less than a 2 MPH gain. The shocks had a 3 MPH gain and the sway bars showed just a little less than a 4 MPH gain through the course. I saw some feed back that people were very happy with the ride they got with the heaver T-bars and that is the ride they were looking for. I also saw people regret going to big so you need to really think out what your wanting your car to do before spending the hard earned dollars that we can barely spare on our cars. The point I was trying to make is if it's not broke don't fix-it & bigger is not always better, it just depends on what you use your car for. On my Sport Fury I used the .890 T-bars, pollygraphite bushings and a good set of gas shocks and it does in fact ride like an Imperial. I am still debating if I am going to even install the sway bar I got for it or just leave well enough alone! Also to heavy of a sway bar can ruin a ride on a cruiser. My experience has been the stiffer the T bar & sway bar the harsher the ride but the better the road feel. They also pointed out in the article too stiff and the inside tire will lift off the ground in a turn. I hate when that happens!! Now, on my Challenger R/T with a 440 I am using the .960 T-bars, polly-bushings, heavy sway bars F&R, wide sticky tires & performance gas shocks, it goes were ever I point it when ever I want it to. Now, for us old guys on a long trip/cruise it's just not very comfortable and you can feel it at the end of the day. But dam it's fun to drive!! Herb 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 1959 Coronet 326 Poly 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 1970 Challenger RT 440 1999 Durango SLT 5.9 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1 St. Louis, MO. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html -------Original Message------- From: Douglas Sutherland Date: 7/17/2009 1:00:52 PM To: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: sway bars Thanks for the info Herb. Besides less lean in a turn, what else does a sway bar actually do for all round drive ability (non racing cruiser)? > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > From: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: sway bars > Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:14:21 -0500 > > > > The .920s are good if your looking for steer ability on a Big block equipped > car, want to increase your load carrying capacity or help level / stiffen > the car out on tight corners. The .960s are for road race applications & > load increasing a high option car with a RB or Hemi. Both can slow you down > at the drag strip and take the driving enjoyment out of a cruiser. .890s > are good for all round driving. .810s are good for low option 6 cylinder > and A engines. Now if your drag racing with a little street driving the > 810s & 90/10 shocks are the way to go for weight transfer. The heaver bars > work the same up & down and restrict weight transfer to the rear wheels and > actually unload your suspension a short distance off the line about the time > you hit second letting your tires spin instead of accelerating faster. When > your tires are spinning your not accelerating to your fullest potential, > ultimately slowing you down from point A to point B. The bottom line .890s > with a good set of shocks for best all round drive ability. I would invest > in a sway bar before heaver T bars unless they needed to be replaced > anyway. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. This email was sent to: arc.6265@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx u/?bUrDWg.bSONJP.YXJjLjYy ?p=TEXFOOTER