Rich, Good information, looks like you are getting close to finding the problem. You have a fuel regulator, I don't recall do you have an electric fuel pump and if you do where is it located and does it have a filter between the tank and the electric fuel pump? Is any part of the fuel system too close to the exhaust and getting warm? I have a 383 with a 4b carb but I live in Yuma where it gets very warm. I installed a turbine type fuel pump with a filter between the tank and the pump. I installed the pump as close to the tank as I could. In cool weather and under normal load I can leave the electric pump off but under load and at higher temperatures I drop fuel pressure and must turn on the electric pump. When I forget to turn on the pump I can go 5 to 10 minutes before I start having trouble and need to turn it on. As I am sure you are already thinking the drop in fuel pressure is the result of the carbs flooding taking too much fuel (I doubt it but possible) or loss of fuel pressure due to a pump problem, filter problem or vapor lock. I have a friend who helps me when I need a hand. He has an inexpensive 12 volt electric fuel pump attached to a plastic fuel can with long leads for clipping on the battery. We have connected it directly to the carb of several cars to start engines when the car was parked too long and we didn't know the condition of the fuel system. If you had an electric fuel pump that you could use to pump directly out of a can it would bypass your entire fuel system and tell you if it is carb related or fuel system related. Take Care Dennis C. Rich Kinsley wrote: > > > > Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies > > This is like a soap opera. Today I removed the valve covers and retested > > and corrected the valve lash. This time I used the method Earl Helm said > > to use. I turned the engine to TDC and did #1, then turned it 90deg to > the next cylinder in the firing order and set it. This was real easy and > > I found if I removed the dist cap all I had to do was turn it till the > reluctor and mag pick-up were in line. I had over-tightened a few with > my keep tighting till they're all .014" at any point. My reasoning was > that the gap shouldn't be more than .014" at any point and if it was, > tighten it. Sounds right but I guess it's not. D**n my mechanic :-) I > did discuss this scenario with Dodger too. > > I checked the plugs and see no oil. I did a compression test with the > plugs pulled and dry cylinders with 5 cranks of the starter. 5 were at > 185psi and the other 3 were at 182psi. I'd say that's good. I couldn't > find my leak down fitting. I put in new plugs too.I also put the timing > light on every plug wire and they stayed steady. So I am convinced the > rings, valve settings and ignition are doing fine. > > Then I started the car and ran it about 15 minutes at idle. The fuel > pressure looked a little high but it's hard to tell 'cause the gauge is > at the end of the fuel block after the carbs and it jumps 2 or 3 psi > constantly as the carbs suck some fuel off. I'll move it to the other > output on the press regulator and that should make it accurate. I did > set the press down a bit as it looked high. The car ran nice and cool > and idled smooth. Then it started to sputter and my stepson said he saw > the fuel press drop to about 3 or less. Then it did the same old cough, > gasp, backfire with bluish smoke and dieseled before it finally died. It > > restarted fine about 5 minutes later and ran good again. > > Next I am going to concentrate on the fuel system as I really feel it's > the culprit. Maybe the pump or the reg are messing up or I still doubt > the last fill up with the octane booster. That's when the problem > started. I'll see if there's any seperating in the fuel and check the > filter too. I'll let you know in the next chapter :-) 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Van Conversion 1964 Plymouth Belvedere 318 Auto 1963 Plymouth Sport Fury 383 4-speed 1949 Dodge Pickup 289/C4 soon to be changed 1998 Honda Valkyrie Standard ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.