Re: sway bars

[Bill <Y1TopBanana73@xxxxxxxxx>]

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I just put the .960's on my 65 coronet 'vert w/ a 318 poly and it
rides like a caddy...sorry...Imperial now. It's NOT stiff, harsh, or
anything else...a very smooth and enjoyable ride. My car is a cruiser
and I would not change to smaller bars for anything.
-- 
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html

On Fri, Jul 17, 2009 at 12:14 PM, Herb<zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
> The .920s are good if your looking for steer ability on a Big block equipped
> car, want to increase your load carrying capacity or help level / stiffen
> the car out on tight corners.  The .960s are for road race applications &
> load increasing a high option car with a RB or Hemi.  Both can slow you down
> at the drag strip and take the driving enjoyment out of a cruiser.  .890s
> are good for all round driving.  .810s are good for low option 6 cylinder
> and A engines.  Now if your drag racing with a little street driving the
> 810s & 90/10 shocks are the way to go for weight transfer.  The heaver bars
> work the same up & down and restrict weight transfer to the rear wheels and
> actually unload your suspension a short distance off the line about the time
> you hit second letting your tires spin instead of accelerating faster.  When
> your tires are spinning your not accelerating to your fullest potential,
> ultimately slowing you down from point A to point B.  The bottom line .890s
> with a good set of shocks for best all round drive ability.  I would invest
> in a sway bar before heaver T bars unless they needed to be replaced anyway.
>
>         
>  Herb
>
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Challenger RT 440
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9
> 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
> St. Louis, MO.
>
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
>

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