Rich, I have been following your issues, sounds like it is getting very frustrating. You have been getting some very good suggestions, here are a couple of mine. These are probably duplicates and may not be of much help: Very interesting that it starting having problems as the distributer was tightened. If you can get it running again well enough to idle use the timing light and check all spark plugs by moving the pickup to one wire at a time. What I look for is a nice steady flash on each wire, the timing mark will not mean anything except on #1. Do you have another distributer? If so I would sway it in and really check close to make sure you are not off a tooth on the distributer gear. I would do everything possible to eliminate ignition problems before looking at anything else. You said it seemed to load up. I am not able to manage a single carb, much less 2 and if I recall you have 2 - 4b carbs. Do you have access to an Air/Fuel meter or have you considered purchasing one? I was having trouble with my 4b carb and managed to get myself lost in jetting and such. I finally purchased a unit from Innovate. As it turned out I was close to having it right but it was really nice to actually see the numbers and see the results when I made changes. I am not discounting the problem being lifters, push rods or rockers but when you check the lash again if they have not changed sure sounds like electrical or fuel. One last thing, do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed? If not you may want to consider one. If you want to see fuel pressure in the car go with an electric gauge, more expensive but safe. If you want to see a chart from my air/fuel meter let me know and I can send one directly to you. Good Luck Dennis C. Rich Kinsley wrote: > > > > Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies > > OK, I got all my valves set to cam specs, .014" I and E cold. I got it > all back together and fired it up. It started great and the idle was > much smoother. I checked the timing w/o vac hook-ed up and it is close > to 14deg btdc. With vac it goes about 16/17 btdc. I idled it for quite a > > long time and it stayed right dead on perfect temperature. I put a vac > gauge on the driverside vac port of my rear Eddy and the vac runs about > 12 to 14+. I adjusted the idle screws and got the vac and rpms ore > stable and it was about 14+ on the vac with a slight downward wobble. > > Then while I was tightening the dist. all of a sudden it started to spit > > and cough. It backfired bluish smoke out both carbs and dieseled to a > stop. What in the world? The temp was still perfect. It did start but > not right away. Then it idled well but started popping a little when I > raised the rpm to up about 3K. > > I'm going to pull the valve covers again and recheck the valves. I > suspect that the adjusters are loosening. I have a spare set of stock > heads so I can swap the rocker parts. Is the adjuster screw able to be > removed and replaced? Is there a longer adjuster screw available that > you can put an extra nut on to lock in the adjustment? > > One of these days I'll get it figured out! Thanks for your help too. 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Van Conversion 1964 Plymouth Belvedere 318 Auto 1963 Plymouth Sport Fury 383 4-speed 1949 Dodge Pickup 289/C4 soon to be changed 1998 Honda Valkyrie Standard ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.