aluminum front clip / was drive shaft loop

[Dodger7998@xxxxxxx]

I do not need one, but I would like to have one,,,,,,,,,whats the  deal
 
 
In a message dated 1/21/2009 8:10:22 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
Sledcity@xxxxxxx writes:



does anyone out there need an aluminum front clip for a 63  dodge?


In a message dated 1/21/2009 9:05:05 P.M. Eastern Standard  Time,  
jcheek@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:




hi all
well  if i get this beast a going this summer im  hoping to get the chance to 
 
ring out the drive shaft(i hope not because then i  would need to  carry a 
spare some where's)
where would you find the loop for  the  shaft also were is the best location 
does it need two or just   one.
thanks everyone you have been very helpful with  information.
thanks  jack
446 with max wedge top end
63 dodge  polara hard  top



----- Original Message -----
From:  Earl Helm  <ehelm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tuesday, January 20,  2009  15:08
Subject: RE: stall or high stall torque converters (RE:  stall  convertor)
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx

> 
>  As usual  Don hits the nail on the head. To add a couple of 
>  aspects 
> to  all of this, one mis-conception many guys just  getting into 
> the  sport
> 
> have is that if I put a  3800 rpm converter in my car it  won't 
> move until
>  
> the rpms reach 3800. In my altered  I have a 5200 rpm stall  
> converter and
> 
> it drives  around the pits at  just above an idle fine. With the newer
> converter  
>  technology most guys won't notice a lot of difference with a   good
> quality 
> 2800 to 3500 converter on the street. Don't  buy  a cheap 
> converter if you
> 
> are making any  kind of HP  or have a big block.
> 
> If you're going to race  your car, there  is a lot more to a converter
> than just 
>  the torque and horse  power curve. The suspension, tires and how 
>  you 
> want to run  your car are very important. Even though I have  a 5200
> converter  
> in my altered, the power curve on my  cam in 4400 to 7600 - 
>  instead of
> launching the car  
> on the converter (which would  not be consistent run to run  
> because of
> the 
>  atmosphere and trans heat) I  launch with a two step at 4400 
> rpms.  This 
> lets the  power come up smoother, dead hook the tires every time  and
> makes  
> the car more consistent. If I launched on the  converter at  close 
> to 5200
> and 
> the track is good,  all is  well, but track conditions are not always
> perfect, so 
>  I  reduce the chance of wheel spin by launching lower. I do give 
>  up  some
> overall 
> ET and speed, but the car is deadly  within the  thou run to run. 
> That is
> what 
> wins  bracket races. I  win a lot of races against guys that 
> launch  at
> high rpms  
> with the converter loaded.
>  
> I use this same principal  when choosing a street converter. On  the
> street it 
> is more  critical because of the varying  traction conditions. 
> Like Don  my
> stall 
> is  close to 3800, but in a street race I seldom foot  brake the car
>  totally against 
> the converter, I prefer to ease  the rpms up to  about 2500, and 
> when the
> light 
>  changes squeeze  the throttle slowly arriving at full throttle 
> about  a
>  grand before 
> it is time to shift to second. By that time  the  fat pipe car is 
> in the
> rear view mirror 
> and I  am  enjoying the look on their face that says "we just got blown
>  off by a  
> old man with a flat top and a four door Plymouth"  (My  favorite
> expression I might 
> add). Another mistake  new comers  make when picking a stall on their
> converter is  
> choosing a  stall that is too low. IMHO it is better to err on  
> the too
>  high side a bit. 
> I can't tell you how  many times I have heard this  statement with 
> fellowMopar guys  
> and big blocks "I am not  going to race, so I am just going to  
> get an
> 1800 rpm  converter" 
> while I am trying  to convince them to by a 2500 minimum.  Two months
> later the  
> statement is always the same "I wish I  had gotten a bigger  
> converter" If
> you are 
> driving a  big block  Mopar, you are going to race it, even if it 
> is on
>  the  street, so 
> don't waste money on a low rpm converter. Have fun   guys....
> 
> Earl
> 
> 
> hey Don,
>  just  like chapter 5 in your book 'Old Reliable', that was 
>  just   
> beautifully written, and well said!
> I'm  smiling, like I was  in the car with you. (o:
> 
> thanks for  that,
>  Schuyler
> 
> Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon  w/ Poly  318
>     <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
> FYI  -  I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318 and more! 
> email  me   
> with your needs -
>     <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan  20,  2009, at 9:02 AM, Gary H. wrote:
> 
> >
> >  Hi  all,
> >
> > I am posting this message for Don  Dulmage, who  is having e-
> mail  
> >  issues.
> >
>  > Thanks,
> > Gary H.
>  >
> >  ==============================================
>  >
> > Every  engine has a power band, a sweet spot or an area  it runs 
> best   
> > in. When we design or build a  car we want our engine to always  
> be  
> > in that  sweet spot. If we are below the sweet  spot or power 
> band   
> > the engine will bog or labour  when we pull away.We don't  want 
> that  
> > because the  engine is not  efficient there nor is it fun to 
> drive.  
>  > Say  we have a stock engine, a 318 for instance. Let us say 
> just   for  
> > the sake of argument its power band is 1200 to  4200  RPM . 
> Anywhere  
> > in the band it runs  well. Below it  labours and above is not 
> good at  
>  > all. This engine  would need a converter stall of AT LEAST 
>  1200RPM  
> >  and would need gearing so it could hit 120  mph at 4200rpm if 
> we   
> > expect it to be a  normal driving car. If we gave it a bit  
> more  
>  > stall speed it would pull away a bit  quicker  but it can  
> live with  
> > 1200 stall. If  we take say my 426  wedge with its 525 hyd cam 
> and  
> >  1100 RPM  idle in neutral. We know it will have no power at1200 
>   rpm.  
> > It almost needs 1100RPM just to idle. If we put in  in  front of 
> the  
> > 1200 converter above and  put it in  gear it would probably not 
> be  
> >  able to sustain an  idle and would quit. If we try to drive it 
>  it  
> >  will have to go from the 1200 farting and kicking  all the way 
>  till  
> > it reaches the bottom of  its power band somewhere  around 3000 
> RPM.  
> >  The top of its power band is  right around  6150 RPM so we 
>  gear for  
> > 6150  at 120 mph.
> > Just to be  able to drive this vehicle we will need a  stall 
> of   
> > 3000RPM so when the car is stopped at a  stop light it can  
> reach up  
> > into its power band  before it has  to pull the car away. Once 
> it is  
> >  rolling it  is much easier to move then the converter will lose 
>  its   
> > stall and become relatively locked up. The speed at  which  
> this  
> > happens is coupling speed. We will be   able to let it idle 
> along at  
> > 1100 rpm and it  will  drive the car and allow this engine with 
> its   
> > big  cam to idle. Since we know that we might meet a Camaro  
> or   
> > Mustang along the way we are not happy  with just being able  
> to  
> > drive it. We know  that even though the  engine's power band 
> starts  
>  > at 3000 it has say  only 220 hp there. By 3800 it has 335 hp so  
> we  
> >  pop in a 3800 stall converter (From  Frank Lupos Dynamc 
>  Converters  
> > of  course)  This gives a a car that will  sit at the stop 
>  light  
> > raggedly idling away at  almost 1000 rpm  (converter pulls it 
> down a  
> > bit.)  and when  the light changes we pull away niceley with 
> no   
>  > trouble. HOWEVER! If we pull up to the light a Joe Mustang  
>  is  
> > sitting beside jacked up on his  converter   with that 
> smart ass  
> > sneer on his  face we  can push the brake pedal a bit harder and 
> lean  
>   > into the throttle . If we hold the brake hard enough we can  
>  push  
> > the engne to almost the full 3800 RPM  and still be at  the 
> stop  
> > light. We now have  available on the  release of the brake the 
> same  
>  > hp as his sick  little pony has on its very best day at its top  
> RPM.  
>  > Come with me now as we finish the  story.The car is protesting 
>  under  
> > the  strain. The light goes green and we lift the  brake , The 
>  front  
> > end rises as the car leaps  forward. My wife is  screaming from 
> the  
> > passenger  seat shouting  "I DON'T KNOW WHY YOU HAVE TO DO THAT! 
> IT   
> >  HURTS MY NECK!!!!!!" I pretend not to notice. My neck is just  
>  fine!  
> > The tach hits 6100 and I push the  pushbutton  marked 2nd. The 
> shift  
> > is firm and  hard.(I  feel sorry as I see Linda's head snap back 
> and  
>   > forth. ("Hang in there baby!" I think." This wont be 
>  much   
> > longer!")  I glance in the mirror to make  sure the back  
> window  
> > didn't fall out on  t!
> >   he shift
> > . Speed builds at an  incredible rate and you can now  hear the 
> wind  
>  > going by the car . Once again the  tach reaches for the 6100  
> mark  
> > and I push D (for  drag)  The  shift is a bit different but 
> definite.  
>  > I  check the mirror. No Mustang or anything else in sight. By 
> now   my  
> > wife is pounding my arm hollering "The're gonna put  you  in 
> prison  
> > one day!!!!" Satisfied all is  well I  lift. The car drops back 
> down  
> > on its  suspension  and eventually returns to normal speed . I 
>  idle  
> >  along about 30 mph .Just another old  grey-haired man out for 
> a   
> > Sunday drive in  his old car. I become in an instant the poster  
> boy   
> > for innocence. I turn to Linda and answer her  first  question 
> softly  
> > with an evil grin "Because   I can!" She shakes her head and 
> wipes  
> > her  brow.  That my son is the stall converter story.
> > When you  settle down  phone Frank and order one. Whatever he 
> says   
> > you  should have. Sometimes if you tell him Don sent you it  
> saves   
> > you money so I have been  told.
> > Don D
>  >
> >
> >  ----
> > Please address private mail  -- mail of interest to  only one 
> person  
> > --  directly to that  person.  I.e., send parts/car 
> transactions  and   
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only  to  
> the  
> > intended recipient, not to the  Clubhouse  public address. 
> This  
> > practice  will protect your  privacy, reduce the total volume of 
>  mail  
> > and fine  tune the content signal to Mopar  topic.  Thanks!
> >
>  > '62 to '65 Mopar  Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >   http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> >
>   
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of  interest  to only one 
> person --
> directly to that  person.  I.e.,  send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations  as well as other personal  messages only to the intended
>  recipient, not to the Clubhouse public  address. This practice  will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total  volume of mail and  fine 
> tune the
> content signal to Mopar  topic.   Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion   Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.   
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail  of  interest to only one 
> person -- directly to that  person.  I.e.,  send parts/car 
> transactions and  negotiations as well as other  personal messages 
> only to the  intended recipient, not to the  Clubhouse public 
> address. This  practice will protect your privacy,  reduce the 
> total volume of  mail and fine tune the content signal to  Mopar 
> topic.   Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar  Clubhouse Discussion  Guidelines:
>  http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.  
> --
>  
> 
> 
> 

--
[Non-text  portions of this message  have been removed]


----
Please  address private mail -- mail of  interest to only one person --  
directly to that person.  I.e., send  parts/car transactions and  
negotiations as 
well as other personal messages  only to the intended  recipient, not to the 
Clubhouse public address. This  practice will  protect your privacy, reduce 
the 
total volume of mail and fine  tune  the content signal to Mopar topic.  
Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar   Clubhouse Discussion   Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.   




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[Non-text  portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address  private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
directly to that  person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as 
well as  other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the 
Clubhouse  public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the 
total  volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.   Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion  Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.  




**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.