Re: drive shaft loop
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Re: drive shaft loop
- From: Sledcity@xxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 21:08:48 EST
you just need one loop on that car and you can buy a bolt on loop through
one of the suppliers from the mopar collectors guide vendors that bolt directly
to the rear of the tranny crossmember
In a message dated 1/21/2009 9:05:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jcheek@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
hi all
well if i get this beast a going this summer im hoping to get the chance to
ring out the drive shaft(i hope not because then i would need to carry a
spare some where's)
where would you find the loop for the shaft also were is the best location
does it need two or just one.
thanks everyone you have been very helpful with information.
thanks jack
446 with max wedge top end
63 dodge polara hard top
----- Original Message -----
From: Earl Helm <ehelm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 15:08
Subject: RE: stall or high stall torque converters (RE: stall convertor)
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
>
> As usual Don hits the nail on the head. To add a couple of
> aspects
> to all of this, one mis-conception many guys just getting into
> the sport
>
> have is that if I put a 3800 rpm converter in my car it won't
> move until
>
> the rpms reach 3800. In my altered I have a 5200 rpm stall
> converter and
>
> it drives around the pits at just above an idle fine. With the newer
> converter
> technology most guys won't notice a lot of difference with a good
> quality
> 2800 to 3500 converter on the street. Don't buy a cheap
> converter if you
>
> are making any kind of HP or have a big block.
>
> If you're going to race your car, there is a lot more to a converter
> than just
> the torque and horse power curve. The suspension, tires and how
> you
> want to run your car are very important. Even though I have a 5200
> converter
> in my altered, the power curve on my cam in 4400 to 7600 -
> instead of
> launching the car
> on the converter (which would not be consistent run to run
> because of
> the
> atmosphere and trans heat) I launch with a two step at 4400
> rpms. This
> lets the power come up smoother, dead hook the tires every time and
> makes
> the car more consistent. If I launched on the converter at close
> to 5200
> and
> the track is good, all is well, but track conditions are not always
> perfect, so
> I reduce the chance of wheel spin by launching lower. I do give
> up some
> overall
> ET and speed, but the car is deadly within the thou run to run.
> That is
> what
> wins bracket races. I win a lot of races against guys that
> launch at
> high rpms
> with the converter loaded.
>
> I use this same principal when choosing a street converter. On the
> street it
> is more critical because of the varying traction conditions.
> Like Don my
> stall
> is close to 3800, but in a street race I seldom foot brake the car
> totally against
> the converter, I prefer to ease the rpms up to about 2500, and
> when the
> light
> changes squeeze the throttle slowly arriving at full throttle
> about a
> grand before
> it is time to shift to second. By that time the fat pipe car is
> in the
> rear view mirror
> and I am enjoying the look on their face that says "we just got blown
> off by a
> old man with a flat top and a four door Plymouth" (My favorite
> expression I might
> add). Another mistake new comers make when picking a stall on their
> converter is
> choosing a stall that is too low. IMHO it is better to err on
> the too
> high side a bit.
> I can't tell you how many times I have heard this statement with
> fellowMopar guys
> and big blocks "I am not going to race, so I am just going to
> get an
> 1800 rpm converter"
> while I am trying to convince them to by a 2500 minimum. Two months
> later the
> statement is always the same "I wish I had gotten a bigger
> converter" If
> you are
> driving a big block Mopar, you are going to race it, even if it
> is on
> the street, so
> don't waste money on a low rpm converter. Have fun guys....
>
> Earl
>
>
> hey Don,
> just like chapter 5 in your book 'Old Reliable', that was
> just
> beautifully written, and well said!
> I'm smiling, like I was in the car with you. (o:
>
> thanks for that,
> Schuyler
>
> Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
> <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
> FYI - I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318 and more!
> email me
> with your needs -
> <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
>
> On Jan 20, 2009, at 9:02 AM, Gary H. wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I am posting this message for Don Dulmage, who is having e-
> mail
> > issues.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Gary H.
> >
> > ==============================================
> >
> > Every engine has a power band, a sweet spot or an area it runs
> best
> > in. When we design or build a car we want our engine to always
> be
> > in that sweet spot. If we are below the sweet spot or power
> band
> > the engine will bog or labour when we pull away.We don't want
> that
> > because the engine is not efficient there nor is it fun to
> drive.
> > Say we have a stock engine, a 318 for instance. Let us say
> just for
> > the sake of argument its power band is 1200 to 4200 RPM .
> Anywhere
> > in the band it runs well. Below it labours and above is not
> good at
> > all. This engine would need a converter stall of AT LEAST
> 1200RPM
> > and would need gearing so it could hit 120 mph at 4200rpm if
> we
> > expect it to be a normal driving car. If we gave it a bit
> more
> > stall speed it would pull away a bit quicker but it can
> live with
> > 1200 stall. If we take say my 426 wedge with its 525 hyd cam
> and
> > 1100 RPM idle in neutral. We know it will have no power at1200
> rpm.
> > It almost needs 1100RPM just to idle. If we put in in front of
> the
> > 1200 converter above and put it in gear it would probably not
> be
> > able to sustain an idle and would quit. If we try to drive it
> it
> > will have to go from the 1200 farting and kicking all the way
> till
> > it reaches the bottom of its power band somewhere around 3000
> RPM.
> > The top of its power band is right around 6150 RPM so we
> gear for
> > 6150 at 120 mph.
> > Just to be able to drive this vehicle we will need a stall
> of
> > 3000RPM so when the car is stopped at a stop light it can
> reach up
> > into its power band before it has to pull the car away. Once
> it is
> > rolling it is much easier to move then the converter will lose
> its
> > stall and become relatively locked up. The speed at which
> this
> > happens is coupling speed. We will be able to let it idle
> along at
> > 1100 rpm and it will drive the car and allow this engine with
> its
> > big cam to idle. Since we know that we might meet a Camaro
> or
> > Mustang along the way we are not happy with just being able
> to
> > drive it. We know that even though the engine's power band
> starts
> > at 3000 it has say only 220 hp there. By 3800 it has 335 hp so
> we
> > pop in a 3800 stall converter (From Frank Lupos Dynamc
> Converters
> > of course) This gives a a car that will sit at the stop
> light
> > raggedly idling away at almost 1000 rpm (converter pulls it
> down a
> > bit.) and when the light changes we pull away niceley with
> no
> > trouble. HOWEVER! If we pull up to the light a Joe Mustang
> is
> > sitting beside jacked up on his converter with that
> smart ass
> > sneer on his face we can push the brake pedal a bit harder and
> lean
> > into the throttle . If we hold the brake hard enough we can
> push
> > the engne to almost the full 3800 RPM and still be at the
> stop
> > light. We now have available on the release of the brake the
> same
> > hp as his sick little pony has on its very best day at its top
> RPM.
> > Come with me now as we finish the story.The car is protesting
> under
> > the strain. The light goes green and we lift the brake , The
> front
> > end rises as the car leaps forward. My wife is screaming from
> the
> > passenger seat shouting "I DON'T KNOW WHY YOU HAVE TO DO THAT!
> IT
> > HURTS MY NECK!!!!!!" I pretend not to notice. My neck is just
> fine!
> > The tach hits 6100 and I push the pushbutton marked 2nd. The
> shift
> > is firm and hard.(I feel sorry as I see Linda's head snap back
> and
> > forth. ("Hang in there baby!" I think." This wont be
> much
> > longer!") I glance in the mirror to make sure the back
> window
> > didn't fall out on t!
> > he shift
> > . Speed builds at an incredible rate and you can now hear the
> wind
> > going by the car . Once again the tach reaches for the 6100
> mark
> > and I push D (for drag) The shift is a bit different but
> definite.
> > I check the mirror. No Mustang or anything else in sight. By
> now my
> > wife is pounding my arm hollering "The're gonna put you in
> prison
> > one day!!!!" Satisfied all is well I lift. The car drops back
> down
> > on its suspension and eventually returns to normal speed . I
> idle
> > along about 30 mph .Just another old grey-haired man out for
> a
> > Sunday drive in his old car. I become in an instant the poster
> boy
> > for innocence. I turn to Linda and answer her first question
> softly
> > with an evil grin "Because I can!" She shakes her head and
> wipes
> > her brow. That my son is the stall converter story.
> > When you settle down phone Frank and order one. Whatever he
> says
> > you should have. Sometimes if you tell him Don sent you it
> saves
> > you money so I have been told.
> > Don D
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person
> > -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to
> the
> > intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address.
> This
> > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of
> mail
> > and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> >
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> >
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person --
> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine
> tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages
> only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public
> address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the
> total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
> topic. Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> --
>
>
>
>
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as
well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the
total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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