oldtranny build

[Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Yes thesm 727 parts fit. You can get rid of the B7T but i havent any idea why you would. it will never give trouble. 
Input saft conversion is a good idea. Allows you a better choice of coverters and if yopu have it apart why not. You might tell me the same about the B7T thing. So be it. (Except i hate making or buying driveshafts)
he biggest deal with torqueflites is to get more clutches in the clutch packs.Some companies make thinner plates which will work. I remachine the reaction plate at the end fortheextra clearance and tae a bit off the piston too. If you ad one plate toa four plate cuch pack you increase its holding power by 25%. That puts it above the failable area and it is no longer a worry. I also to the forward (rear clutch)(Forward clutch is on in all forwad moving gears.ie not in reverse, but is located to the rear of the trans behind the direct clutch. (Aka Front clutch). Be sure ti use a brass ir bronze spacer between the front have and the rear half of the trans. the fiber ones will fail under hard use . Use the very best sealing rings in the stator support to direct clutch seal as the front most one runs hot and will burn out in hard use allowing third gear to slip and eventally fail. Unless you have a Turbo action manual valve body i use a transco restrictor in the direct clutch passage in the case to hold off third grear a milisecond so second can get a chance to release. otherwise there is an overlap on the shift at high RPm and to the untrained feels like a good frsm shoft but n realaity it is a bnd and secd and third are on at the same time for a split second hurting both the band and the clutch. A simple test runnig it on a hoist and shifting to thrd from second. You can actually see the wheel stop on the shift and will be able to see the 5 wheel nits clrearly believe it or not.  The resrtictor cures this. as does the tubo action manual valve body. athough it should never be used on the street because it does not have engine braking on coast.  On the street I use a fairanks kit like in my 63 and a modified govenor to shift around 6000 . I use the kickdown linkage adjusted like I have said before. 
In the dragster i use the stck valve body anda lawn mower throttle cale to control the kickdown lever andthereby set the shift points. Yes i leave the rail in drive. Works perfect for an ol guy bouncing around in a roll cage behind a roaring /6.
I also use synthetic trans oil like mobil 1. it will about put an end to transfailure and is wel worth the money spent . especially at high power levels. 
I do not use the bronze screen type filters. i use the stck ones and i retain the rear pump onmy 63 trans by adding an extra opening n thefilter for it. If a deep oan I add the extrea hole to the spacer as well. 
Don

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