Re: Oh give me a break.

[Schuyler Wrobel <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Rich, have you checked the vacuum adv. in the dist. yet?
 I had problems with my Mopar Electronic distributor's vacuum  
advance! I heard about
a couple horror stories*,,, so I had to really check it out, and this  
is what I found on my dist.
hope I can explain this, it's been awhile.
there's the aluminum lever or bar that comes out of the back of the  
vacuum adv. pod and attaches to
the vacuum adv, plate in your distributor, you can see it with the  
cap off. the other end is attached
to a diaphragm in that vacuum pod on the side of the dist. it has a  
somewhat adjustable limit.
you can pull or push the bar and it will advance the plate that the  
pick-up is mounted on.
I carefully measure my gap with the brass feeler gage, but when I  
advance the plate and turn the reluctor,
the reluctor actually makes contact with the pick-up. I used that  
tiny allen wrench to take out as much adv.
as possible but it still touched. I had the distributor out of the  
car by now. there's 3 studs or glides that this vacuum
plate rides on so it can ad it's adv. independently from the breaker  
plate. I put a dab of JB Weld on each one
fusing it to the breaker plate. oh yeah, I tossed the lever arm in  
one of my misc. parts drawers. and was done with
it.
the next day, I adjusted the mech. adv.* in the distributor, checked  
the gap, plugged the vacuum ports no longer
in use. I re timed it with more initial adv. but there's an even  
better way now that there's no vacuum adv.*
I know the vacuum adv. can be made to work properly,, but,,, I don't  
miss it, and my life is simpler. (o:

IF your distributor is ok, here's another problem I had, that caused  
poor drivability then it wouldn't start.
 the blue coil wire, it is folded back in the wiring harness that  
goes over the passenger side Poly
head, and then attaches to the coil or maybe it was the ballast  
resistor? anyway the fold weakened the
wire and after 40 years it started shorting out. If your wiring  
harness is similar to mine, that's one wire
that's suspect.

then there's the dashboard voltage limiter?

and of course the amp. gage itself could be going bad. I hear that  
can be real bad.

just some things you can check, some were problems I had.

Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
 <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
FYI - I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318 and more! email me  
with your needs -
 <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>



On May 28, 2008, at 6:26 PM, Jimmy Peavy wrote:

>   No, I wouldn't think so.
> If the wiring gets hot and melts the insulation next to another  
> wire in
> the harness, it will sometimes peg out the ammeter.
> It all depends on  what circuits are involved.
> It only gets worse as you drive the car, until it really fries all the
> connecting circuits.
> This may not be the condition you are experiencing, but it is  
> repairable
> in the early stages. Once the entire harness is involved, the only
> option is replacing the harness.
> Be careful, and inspect the wiring before that scenario plays out.
>
> Jimmy
>
>
> Rich Kinsley wrote:
>
> > I did see some smoke from the rear of the hood on the passenger  
> > side. I
> > checked it imediately and it appeared to be my usual spec of oil  
> > on the
> > headers but it was white. How about the ballast resistor? would that
> > have a similar affect?
> >                                    Rich K
> > ====================================================================
> > Jimmy Peavy wrote:
> >
> >
> > > Fried wiring in the dash will make that ammeter peg out like you
> > > describe.
> > >
> > >    Jimmy
> > >
> > > Rich Kinsley wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Rich Kinsley wrote: Nothing yet :-)
> > > > =================================================================== 
> > > > =
> > > > Sorry about the almost post. My fingers are too fat.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway I want to update you on my recent debacle's. I switched the
> > > > ignition module to the Echlin module and I managed to drive it  
> > > > for about
> > > >
> > > > 30 miles BUT it still missed badly over 3500rpm. Then all of a  
> > > > sudden it
> > > >
> > > > started dying on me and I barely made it home. This time the  
> > > > ammeter was
> > > >
> > > > about pegged and when I tried to start the engine it sounded  
> > > > like a low
> > > > battery. It is a very recent and good Interstate battery which  
> > > > shows
> > > > 12.9v with my meter. Anyway it did start and then cranked fine  
> > > > but the
> > > > ammeter is showing charging heavily. There was no device running  
> > > > other
> > > > than the engine, period. The car would slightly back fire when
> > > > decelerating and just spit and sputter when accelerating. Full  
> > > > throttle
> > > > or sudden throttle changes were impossile.
> > > >
> > > > I'm wondering if the voltage regulator or alternator could be a  
> > > > culprit?
> > > >
> > > > If the voltage to the module is eradic I suppose that might  
> > > > affect the
> > > > spark signal? The air/fuel ratio sensor on the dyno said we were  
> > > > right
> > > > in the ball park at that point in time. I gotta think that would  
> > > > not
> > > > change since we did nothing to affect that since then. I did put  
> > > > the old
> > > >
> > > > module back on and it behaves just the same as the new one. Rats!
> > > >
> > > > Ideas accepted here:
> > > >
> > > > Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person  
> > -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and  
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the  
> > intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This  
> > practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of  
> > mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> --------------020800020007090505060403--


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.