Cam mobil

[Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have experimented with synthetics in our motors . Esso which is Exon in your land sponored an experiment. They gave us through the dealer a supply of synthetic. oil (Esson and Mobil were together then so it would be the same stuff.) We had problems right from the git go and I pulled the engine after one weekends racing and freshened it . The cam was showing signs of wear already which it never had before.  I have not used it in my race cars since. (I have customer though using Royal Purple 40 wt successfully. 
Lifters , We have the best luck with sealed power lifters . I have had issues with Comp cams lifter recently , I emailed them . did not have a wiped cam but  2 in a set would bleed down when sitting and would clack when restated for a couple of seconds. I wrote them a nice email explaining the problem the Reply I recieved said and i quote. "I am NOT resupplying lifters for any installed cams period" 
I was disappointed . I did not like that my engine was noisy for no good reason and wanted my customer to be happy. Aparrently they did not really care once they had the gold. I still ave the email by the way in case any should think to deny it. . I got him some sealed power lifters and that cured it. 
I think misses Lee in china does not know how to harden lifters  but these particular ones were ok wear wise just noisy. The solids which you obviously have can be had from hubert and others with a oil bleeed hole lazer cut in them . I would think this is good. Shuberts will not wear at all as they are some kind of ceramic but they are almost too expensive for our motors.
Re breakin. Here is what we do and we have had good success although it is harder than it used to be according to al accounts from experienced builders. 
I use the supplied cam lube drirectly on the lobes . i also smear the whole cam liberally with wheel bearing grease and dip each lifter in the greease on its bottom before installing it. I do not use multigrade oils  but use Dg diesel truck oils 40 wt or 50 if it is really hot weather (90f+) I prelube the engie (using my intervenus prelube invention but a drill running the oil pump is fine also. 
I make sure the engine will fire immediatley . timing set in the will run for sure zone and i fill the carb float bowls manualy. When the ngine fires I DO NOT EVER let it idle for at least 20 minutes but keep it around 2000 to 2500  jabbing the throttle occasionally . if I need to adjust or fix something I shut it off and restart with throttle applied . When the 20 minutes is reached I shut it off and change the oil and filter while it is still smokin hot. This removes my assembly lubes while they are still suspended in the oil at temp. I refill with my same good oil and drive it like i stole it .
The number one best way to make sure you lose a cam BTW is to crank the engine over on the starter till you have oil pressure. By the time you have pressure you already dont have a cam. Avoid cranking and idling like it was the plague. So far this has worked for me well and i am in 35 plus years but i still worry as much as ever and even more since lifter manufacture became a martial art form and moved to aisa.
Don  

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