RE: oil use and ruings

[Bill Jacobs <moperformance@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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Don Dulmage wrote:
> 
> 
> rings are getting a lot of verbal abuse I notice so I will attempt to 
> clear the air. first , these days rings are rarely the cause of oiling 
> in an engine. Even motors with 200000 on them are still running with no 
> trouble. 25 years ago that was unheard of. 
> Ring endgaps do not cause engine oiling BTW. hypereutetic pistons 
> require huge ring gaps on the top ring otherwise they will butt at full 
> throttle high load and pull the top off of the piston which is one of 
> the reasons hypereutectics get a bad name. They require the huge end 
> gaps because they trap more of the heat energy in the top of the piston 
> rather than disapating it throughout. When set as the manufacturers 
> specifies (.027 to .032  etc) for the top ring they will in fact under a 
> full load position be almost butted but not quite. 
> The Ring end gap thing is very debatable even for file fite. Hastings 
> ring company did  some tests i read about in the late seventies with 
> ring gaps and found no power increase from closing up ring gaps. they 
> found no measurable powerloss till gaps reached .052  in a 4 inch bore. 
> Hastings are the oem designer of most factiry rings including imports . 
> most;y because of their technoology on the flex a vet oil ring and if 
> you are an experienced engine builder you can spot their unique design 
> immediatley so they are not dumies in this field. They have steadfastly 
> refused to make a file fit ring set for racing . 
> Do I file fit my rings , Sure i do  but i am telling you this just so 
> you know it is rarely the rings or the ring gaps that cause oil use. 
> PCv system can be a source of trouble . especially in a well sealed 
> engine (ie total seals etc) They even used to warn about it in their 
> early instruction sheets. 
> The black Mopar perf valve covers are terrible for oil control.  
> baffling is insuffficient although Greg Bolt in Campellford came up with 
> a new set of baffles that work much better. 
> We also have welded a full lenght baffle in the valve covers to cure the 
> problem in race engines  with full rocker oiling. If you have a mopar 
> book read the blurp on the unpainted  covers in the MP catalog. That is 
> a real eye opener. 
> Valve seals and valve guides are another source of trouble and #1 on the 
> list. The intakes need to be the sealed type that press over the guide  
> otherwise on some cars especially some e bodies the pass rear will suck 
> oil as it is slightly overed in some situations. Also guides in stock 
> heads are too long  for any cams over 500 lift and must be shortened to 
> provide enough clearance for the valve seal at full lift . otherwise the 
> retainer will smack them and split the seal  and VOILA , instant oil 
> burner. even just one split intake seal will turn a good sound engine 
> into a plug fouling smoker .
> Also as mentioned I think by Rick E and Earl and others  the engine can 
> suck oil under the intake of there is a mismatch or weak gasket seal. 
> #1 culprit is when heads are planed the intake doesnt sit right. Often 
> this is caused by the ends of the manifold sitting proud on the block 
> end rail not allowing the manifold to sit down on the head properly. We 
> always relieve the ends of the manifold with a grinder  back about an 
> inch underneath on all four corners .
> As to the rings .
> The Oil ring controls oil  and the second ring in some designs is said 
> to scrap the walls clean but the top ring  really does give a dang and 
> has no affect on engine oiling. 
> Another common cause is chevy disease which is when a chevy guy built a 
> B mopar and fits the pistons to small block chevy specs. Also a tight 
> pin  falls into this catagory as well.
> These  two conditions cause piston and cyl wall scuffing  and the combo 
> of the two is worse. 
> Why does a tight pin cause  cylinder wall scuffing you ask? good 
> question!
> because the tight pin causes the piston to get hotter than it was 
> designed to be in the pin boss area. When a piece of alumunum heats it 
> expands   quickly and if there is not enough room for it to grow it 
> squeezes the oil  film off of the cylinder wall and proceeds to try and 
> fuse itself to the wall . Very quickly. In less than an hour there wll 
> be two long grooves worn in both the cylinder wall and the pistons which 
> are very distinct. The machine shop guy will have some wonderful 
> explanation that is designed to confuse ending with how mopars are junk 
> etc etc but in reality pins were too tight and clearance too samll. An 
> engie in this condition will still run but will eventually become noisy 
> and a severe oil user. I seee this at least two or theree times a year 
> as we are called on often to do there pair or to consult on the problem 
> or cause. We alway check and correct pin fit in all motors although i 
> must say Sealed Power (FM or TRW) have really done a great job claning 
> up their act in this area. Obviously they care. 
> Pins should not have any perceptable tightness when properly installed. 
> BTW A race engine on the street with race rings and clearances will 
> always use a bit of oil . It will be hard on tires too  but somehow it 
> doesnt seem to be important. 
> enough for now
> Don
> Author of
> Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
> Old Reliable (Mopar)
> http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
Don,This was GREAT! 
Thanks,
Bill


64 Fury

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