Re: melted heater switch--HELP!

[Bill Watson <wwatson5@xxxxxxxxx>]

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The ballast resistor has absolutely nothing to with the heater, wipers,
lights, radio, or anything other than supplying power to the coil after the
car has started.

On a 1964 Plymouth, the Heater Blower Switch should have 4 wires :
1. Tan (16-gauge) : From "2" on the switch to the "High" on the heater
blower resistor which runs power directly to the blower motor.
2. Dark Green (16-gauge) : From "1" on the switch to the "Medium" on the
heater blower resistor which runs power through part of the resistor to the
blower motor.
3. Brown (16-gauge) : From the centre of the switch to the "Low" on the
heater blower resistor which runs power through the resistor to the blower
motor.
4. Violet (16-gauge) : From the centre of the switch to the Heater Vacuum
Switch.

On the opposite side of the Heater Vacuum Switch, a Black (14-gauge) wire
runs to Accessory side of fuse box.  The accessory side of the box gets its
power through the ignition switch - a Black wire that runs to an accesory
wire junction then to the ACC on the ignition switch.

In this manner no power runs to the Heater Vacuum Switch until the ignition
switch is in ACC or ON/RUN positions.   The Heater Vaccuum Switch, in turn,
controls the power to the Heater Blower Switch.  That switch controls the
flow of power to the heater blower resistor.  By running either through the
whole resistor (Low), part of the resistor (Medium) or no resistor (Hi), one
of the three fan speeds can be chosen.

Your ballast resistor should 4 wires connected to it :

One one end -
1. Dark Blue (14-gauge) to the ignition coil
2. Brown (18-gauge) to the bulkhead connector and then to IGN 2 on the
ignition switch (which is START).

The other end will have -
3. Dark Blue (18-gauge) to the regulator (IGN)
4. Dark Blue (16-gauge) to the bulkhead connector and then to IGN on the
ignition switch (which is ON or RUN).

Thus when you start the car, the power runs through #2 wire to the resistor
and then through #1 to the coil.
Once the engine is running, power runs through #4 wire to the resistor,
through the resistor, then through #1 to the coil.

Bill
Vancouver, BC


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sean Bolter" <bolterman@xxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 6:31 AM
Subject: melted heater switch--HELP!


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The heater selector switch on my 1964, non-A/C Fury has severe melting
problems.  When I bought the car, it worked fine, as did the blower.  It
has since had the buttons freeze up, and the blower stopped working.  I
removed the blower and hotwired it, and it works fine out of the car.
Anthony Powell is rebuilding the switch, and he says the melting is
pretty bad.  Any ideas?

I don't know if it is related, but one of the terminals going to my
ballast resistor is a little melted.

Thanks,

Sean Bolter

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