
Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
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Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
- From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 20:43:25 -0400
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hi dave,
long winded nothing! it was great. ive made progress.
blower motor checked out ok. im now chasing down the possible vacuum
leak. electrically everything seems ok. i will still need to
replace the multibutton heater control switch. Anyone got a really
good one out there for a 63 Sport Fury?? : )
Ill keep you posted.
thanks
derrick
On May 23, 2005, at 8:34 PM, Dave Krugler wrote:
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Derric- Hope you got my big long-winded note on vacuum system and
heater control valve, how did you make out? Did you get the heater
working?
From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 13:55:06 -0400
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Hi,
Ok, the verdict.
BLower motor checked out ok.
I removed the blower switch and found the grounding of the 12V
source (center terminal)
I took Daves guidance and jumpered the actual 12v source coming
to the switch and that powered the blower fine. So the switch
was toast.
now for the uncharted territory.........
Out of pure determination i spread the four prongs on the back of
the switch and dismantled it.
i found inside the tabs which were arching from age and wear.
i polished it all with emery cloth (and a shot or two of
electromotive) reassembled and was in business. blower works great!
even have all three positions (talk about modern conveniences!)
Now its on to find which vaccum line is leaking because heat ,
cool and defrost all work just that when you actuate the control
switch you have to rotate the vacuum pots by hand.
any tips from the forum on where to start?
i know it could be many places , maybe even the switch itself?
thanks again.
On May 15, 2005, at 9:25 AM, Dave Krugler wrote:
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You can probably tell whether or not the motor is bound up by
simply removing the 6" dia inlet hose that connects the motor to
the cowl vent duct and sticking a long skinny screwdriver
carefully thru the fixed vanes on the motor housing and using it
to spin the blower wheel. If it exhibits any hint of coasting
it is probably ok. If it appears to be stiff turning it needs
to come out and be looked at. To fining removing remove screw
from motor ground lead at cowl bracket, remove sky-hook bracket
nut, rotate top of blower assembly reaward in car then slide
assembly right in car to get it loose. Disconnect positive lead
bullet connecter which will become visible as you remove blower
from case. The blower looks like one of Donald Campbell's jet
engines out of Bluebird or something similar, definitely a novel
blower assembly. Motors appear on E- bay from time to time.
From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 08:37:38 -0400
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how easy is it to get to? do i have to remove it to check for
drag?
On May 14, 2005, at 10:48 PM, Gary Wilson wrote:
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Did you make sure the motor was good. If it has to much drag
it will cause blown fuses.
MOPAR413 (Gary) 64 Polora 500
From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 18:18:29 -0400
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i checked continuity on this switch.
the center terminal does ground to the case.
\
the other two terminals do not show continuity to ground.
so this should be the culprit???????
On May 13, 2005, at 8:47 PM, Dave Krugler wrote:
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-- -
I suppose the blower speed switch could also be shorted to
ground due to internal overheat and failure. If you have
access to a volt/ ohm meter or even a test light you could
check that fairly easily. There should be no continuity
between any terminal on the back of the blower speed
switch and ground. If you connect 1 side of a 12volt lamp
to battery voltage in the car and remove the wir harness
plug from back of the blower speed switch while still
mounted in the instrument panel you could touch the other
lead of the test light to one terminal at a time and see
if the bulb lights. If it does and you aren't otherwise
touching ground the switch is shorted internally to ground.
From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 14:48:40 -0400
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Hi Dave,
Thanks, funny thing is switch runs blower blower
"slowest" on the HIGH setting (of the switch) and speeds
up on low setting of the switch. if you try to go to
the off position on the switch, see ya, the fuse blows.
Yet now all positions seem to blow the fuse, im wondering
if the heater control switch is the actual culprit?
thanks again,
The usual thing that fail these is either high current
load from a bound up or shorted blower motor or locked
rotor (motor locked up by debris/bearing failure or
whatever) which not only increases the current draw but
does not blow any cooling air across the resistor
coils. If it is possible for an overheated resistor
coil to sag onto the metal case of the heater and make
a circuit that could cause fuses to blow.
From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Heater Blower Resistor?
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 09:18:43 -0400
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hi,
has anyone ever had one of these go bad?
i think it may be a source of blowing fuses to the
heater blower as I increase the speed selector on the
fan switch.
if so, does anyone have one they know is good that they
would sell?
contact me offlist if you have one to sell.
thanks
Derrick
derrickb@xxxxxxx
'63 Sport Fury
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Derrick
derrickb@xxxxxxx
'63 Sport Fury
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car transactions and negotiations as well as other
personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine
tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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transactions and negotiations as well as other personal
messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
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Derrick
derrickb@xxxxxxx
'63 Sport Fury
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car
transactions and negotiations as well as other personal
messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car
transactions and negotiations as well as other personal
messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse
public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
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Derrick
derrickb@xxxxxxx
'63 Sport Fury
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car
transactions and negotiations as well as other personal
messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse
public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce
the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car
transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages
only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public
address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the
total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. --
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Derrick
derrickb@xxxxxxx
'63 Sport Fury
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person
-- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the
intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of
mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person
-- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the
intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail
and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. --
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
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