Re: Oil leaks/rear main seal

[Schuyler Wrobel <schuyler62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Has anyone replaced a rear main seal/engine in the car. I've got the 
oil pan off the Poly 318
and pulled the oil pump and was wondering if there is anything special 
I should know about this procedure?
I got one of these wire loop tools for the job, it's sort of like a 
fishing tape to pull the seal in place
for the half that goes into the block. Any words of wisdom are welcome, 
this is the first time
I've done one of these and there's nothing mentioned in the FSM.
thanks
Schuyler
Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
 <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
On May 16, 2005, at 4:17 PM, Schuyler Wrobel wrote:

> Well, I started with the Intake manifold and resealed it as per Ray & 
> Shaun's suggestions.
> Except, I used yellow weather strip adhesive to glue down the end 
> pieces, to hold them
> in place, then a dab of black RTV in the corners and a thin layer 
> across the top. Nothing
> on the Offy gaskets, and I teflon taped all the oil sender and gage 
> fittings. The angles seemed
> to check out ok and the ports lined up good with the intake side only 
> slightly smaller then
> the port openings on the head. Hope it works when I get around to 
> firing it up!
>  Here's what I found while I had the intake off. The black silicon I 
> used previously, in-place
> of the end pieces, had a few channels in it where the oil could easily 
> escape! especially at
> the back. The Offy gaskets sealed well even though I used aviation 
> black Permatex goop
> on both sides of the gasket, what a sticky mess that was, glad to hear 
> these gaskets don't
> need it. Now for the really big goof, as I was checking the cam, 
> lifters and push rods I noticed
> one of the push rods was bent, sort of wobbled around as I spun it? So 
> , off came the valve covers
> backed off the adjuster and pulled out the pushrod. What appears to 
> have happened was,
> the previous time before I installed the intake manifold, I cleaned 
> out the bolt holes in the head
> with a thread chaser and went a little to far in on 3 of them, where 
> the bolt hole goes into the pushrods
> tunnel. the tool made contact with the pushrod and bent it and started 
> to bore a hole into
> the side of the pushrod, yikes! this must of made things difficult for 
> the valve to open and close
> properly, there were marks left from rubbing on the other side of the 
> bend, now I know why
> those rockers were the noisiest. By the way these are the push rods 
> that actuate the rocker
> for the exhaust valves that pass directly under the Manifold bolt 
> holes another source for oil leakage if you don't
> seal the threads! Decided to skip chasing the threads this time 
> around, broke the tool anyway.
> My original 62 Poly motor, the one with the broken crank, donated some 
> replacement pushrods.
> chalk up another one for this ham fisted mechanic. (o;
>  Some other interesting observations, one of the exhaust manifold 
> bolts, front drivers side, is gone,
> missing? next one over loose about half way out? only one loose on the 
> other side? what's going
> on here? /o:
>  Stay tuned, will be dropping the oil pan soon to replace the rear 
> main seal. Should I check
> the rod bearings while I have the pan off? little unsure about 
> re-torquing rod bolts?
> then on to the trans pan for a new gasket and filter, hope there's no 
> more surprises!?
>  Sure would like to install my Spitfire headers also, does anyone know 
> where I can find a reasonably
> priced duel exhaust kit or is the local muffler shop the only 
> solution? was hoping to save some
> money and do it my self but can't find any deals on pipes.
> thanks for the help.
> Schuyler
> Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
>  <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>