RE: Brake Issue

[John Goodman <regsec@xxxxxxxx>]

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The new cylinders are not leaking.  The shoes had been soaked at one
time or another in the past.  New front shoes go on tomorrow.  The car
isn't a driver, unless you call 1/8 mile passing driving.  Ha Ha.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Jr. Morgan [mailto:polara_hotrods@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 5:10 PM
To: moparwebsite
Subject: Re: Brake Issue

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If they are that wet after driving, then i would think that the
cylinders are currently leaking, unless you didn't drive it enough to
get the brakes hot. If you did, and they are wet now, then they must be
leaking. Something must be wrong.

----- Original Message -----
From: John Goodman
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 8:55 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Brake Issue

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No power brake booster is being used.  Didn't disturb the pedal throw.
Brake pedal height was fine until I replaced front brake wheel
cylinders.  I'm going to finish this job right.  Pulled the drums off
and noted that the pads seemed soaked (black looking).  This was
probably due to the wheel cylinders leaking earlier.  New pads on the
way.  I'll put them on in the next two days and see where I am from
there.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Wilson [mailto:MOPAR413@xxxxxxx]  
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 10:59 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Brake Issue

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First off you need to adjust the brakes.  Sometimes you have to do this
a  
couple of times in order to get it right.  Make sure the brake hoses are
in  
good condition.  Does the car have a power brake booster?  Make sure the

throw in right in the brake pedal to master cycl.



MOPAR413 (Gary) 64 Polora 500




>From: John Goodman <regsec@xxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
>To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Brake Issue
>Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 11:53:30 -0400
>
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>
>I am at my wits end here and need some help.  My race car, a 66
Valiant,
>has four wheel drum brakes.  Last summer when I would back the car off
>the trailer, after a short distance, the car would abruptly stop (no
>brakes applied).  After one such incident, I pulled it forward into my
>garage, and pulled the rear wheels.  I found both that everything
inside
>looked brand new, but on a hunch, pulled both wheel cylinders and found
>minimal rust.  Bled both wheel cylinder thoroughly and took a stupid
>short cut and didn't bleed the front brakes.  I think I found the
>bleeder screws were about to twist off, and I didn't have new cylinders
>for the front, etc. etc.  Anyway, next weekend, going through the
traps,
>hit the brakes and the car pulled hard left.  Trailered the car and
took
>it home.  O.k., time to do a more thorough job.  Pulled the front
wheels
>and found both front wheel cylinder full of crud, big time.  Replaced
>both and bled, and bled and bled the brakes.  Put in entirely new fluid
>after using a kit to bleed out the old fluid from the master cylinder.
>Now, when I push on the brake pedal, it goes a LONG way down before
>stopping.  Pumping it a couple of times, doesn't improve the pedal
>height, so I have sort of ruled out air in the lines.  The car doesn't
>have self adjusting brakes, just the "star"wheels on all four wheels.
>What is wrong and how do I fix it.  I get very nervous pushing the
pedal
>down so far now.
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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>----
>Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
>directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and  
>negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended  
>recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect  
>your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content

>signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
>'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.  

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



bOyW3N.