Seems like some Chebbie info intermixed in there... -----Original Message----- From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of 62-65-mail-list-club-Gary-H Sent: Friday, May 09, 2025 08:32 To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: 383 Engine Build - Issues to Avoid Wanted That is a good one Jim. I don't know if there is any "AI Hallucination" included in the list; it is not obvious to me anyway. :) Thanks, Gary H. > -------Original Message------- > From: Jim Jablonski > > Just for fun, I copied Don's ask into ChatGPT. Here's what was > returned: > > 1. OIL SYSTEM ISSUES: > > * Oil Gallery Plugs: Double-check that all oil gallery plugs are > installed, especially the ones at the back of the block. Leaving even > one out will result in catastrophic oil pressure loss. > * Camshaft Thrust Plate and Bolts: Make sure the plate is installed > correctly, and the bolts are secured with thread locker. > * Rear Main Seal Orientation: Always point the lip of the seal > inward (toward the oil). Installing it backward guarantees a leak. > * Oil Pump Driveshaft: Ensure it's properly engaged with both the > pump and distributor. Misalignment will cause a no-oil-pressure > scenario at startup. > * Pickup Tube Installation: Use thread sealant on the pickup tube > threads and double-check the depth and angle to avoid starvation. > > 2. INTERNAL ENGINE ASSEMBLY: > > * Rod Cap Orientation: Rod caps must match their original rods and > face the correct direction. Incorrect orientation leads to binding and > potential failure. > * Piston Ring Gap Placement: Stagger the gaps to reduce blow-by. > Aligning them can result in compression loss and excessive oil > consumption. > * Piston Orientation: Some 383 pistons have an offset wrist pin or a > marking (like "F" or an arrow) indicating the front. Installing > backward can cause noise and wear. > * Connecting Rod Bolt Clearance: Check that rod bolts clear the > block's pan rail, especially when using aftermarket rods or stroker > kits. > > 3. CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY: > > * Head Gasket Orientation: Ensure the correct side is facing up and > that coolant passages align properly. Reversed gaskets can cause > overheating. > * Pushrod Fitment: Verify that the pushrods are seated correctly in > both the lifter and the rocker arm. Misalignment can cause bending or > valvetrain noise. > * Rocker Arm Alignment: Make sure the rocker arms are positioned > correctly on the valve tip and pushrod cup. Misalignment can wear the > rocker or valve stem prematurely. > * Valve Stem Seals: Don't forget to install them! They help control > oil consumption and prevent smoking. > > 4. TIMING AND CAMSHAFT ISSUES: > > * Camshaft Retainer Plate: Missing this plate (or installing it > backward) will allow cam walk, leading to erratic timing and > potential damage. > * Timing Marks Alignment: Double and triple-check that the cam and > crank marks are aligned correctly. A tooth off can cause poor > performance or piston-to-valve contact. > * Fuel Pump Eccentric Orientation: On older engines with mechanical > fuel pumps, ensure the eccentric is installed correctly; otherwise, > fuel pump failure will occur. > > 5. FASTENER PITFALLS: > > * Main Cap Orientation: Some builders accidentally swap the main > caps or face them backward, leading to alignment issues. > * Torque Specs and Sequence: Be meticulous—incorrect torque can lead > to blown gaskets or distorted components. > * Thread Sealant on Head Bolts: Some head bolts go into water > jackets, so sealant is essential to prevent coolant leaks. > * Balancing the Harmonic Damper: If replacing the damper, ensure > it's compatible with your engine's balance setup (internal vs. > external). > > 6. FINAL ASSEMBLY CHECKS: > > * Distributor Gear Engagement: Rotate the engine by hand to ensure > the distributor gear fully engages the cam gear. Misalignment can > cause erratic timing. > * Valve Lash Settings: Improper lash can lead to excessive noise or > valve damage, particularly with solid lifters. > * Cooling System Bleed: Air pockets can cause overheating. Burp the > system thoroughly before the first run. > * Vacuum Port Plugging: Unused vacuum ports on the carb or manifold > must be plugged to prevent lean conditions and vacuum leaks. > > On Wednesday, May 7, 2025 at 5:37:12 AM UTC-4 Jim Jablonski wrote: > > > Here's a few off the top of my head: > > > > - Replace the distributor bushing > > - Don't forget the oil slinger > > - RTV on exhaust manifold / header bolts > - Don't have 5 friends > standing around drinking cold ones during > startup > > Best of > luck! > > > > Jim > > > > On Monday, May 5, 2025 at 9:45:01 AM UTC-4 Donald Gallimore wrote: > > > >> I'll be assembling an engine for the first time in a long time and > >> looking for any "got you" issues to avoid in the assembly process. > >> Things like don't leave out the oil gallery plugs or make sure the > >> rear main seal is pointed inward. > >> > >> It's a 1968 383 with all the machine work done and the freeze >> > plugs and cam bearing installed. Heads are ready to go also. Work >> > done by a very reliable machine shop (but i will still check the >> > work). It's just going to be used for cruise-ins and the like, >> not > a race engine. > >> > >> TYIA. > >> > >> Akron Don > > -- > -- -- -- -- Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. 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