Do you mean external oil pickup? If the engine is broken
in it can be cranked until it fires, more than 2 times. Pressure
will take longer with a larger external pickup volume to fill. I
am assuming the ignition is timed correctly.
Mike
--Off topic...had my 440 Mopar engine built....ran fine on dyno....now since I haven't gotten the new MSD Ignition installed I lost the engine oil pressure via losing the prime. I crank it over about 2 times but it doesnt fire and oil pressure doesn't come up so then I have to remove distributor and gear and I reprime it with my drill motor and hex rod. Anyone know what's up? Is it my external oil pump or maybe the oil filter that is bleeding back? Thanks! Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas to all on this thread. Kenny in Vegas
--On Wed, Dec 14, 2022, 5:32 PM Jim Jablonski <groovinjim@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Aren’t we all :-D--
Sent from Jim’s iPhone
On Wednesday, December 14, 2022, 8:24 PM, Michael <493mike@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Could be a worn ignition switch/bad contacts/dirty condition inside switch. It is rather old.
Mike
On 12/14/2022 8:19 PM, Jim Jablonski wrote:
--I have not. Just taking my time to get it right. The underhood wiring was a trainwreck so I had to pretty much gut it and start with the wires (Hot-during-Start and Hot-in-Run) feeding either side of the now-gone ballast resistor and hence I noticed the low voltage during cranking on the hot-during-Start feed. (This is the wire that on original equipment circuitry, bypasses the ballast resistor so as to give full voltage during cranking.) Ironically, this is the one reading less than optimal voltage but that same voltage is prevalent throughout the starting circuit, like I said, even from battery post to battery post during cranking.
This is turning out to be one of those projects that’s akin to peeling an onion. It never ceases to amaze me how over the last 50+ years not one of the persons working on a particular car had any wiring skills. Sorry. Rant over. Peet peeve, though!
Thank you,
Jim
From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2022 19:34
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Off Topic: Looking for '68 Barracuda wiring diagrams
Yes, it would be pointless. Just throwing it out there. Have you actually tried the injection out yet? How does it start and run?
Mike
On 12/14/2022 9:37 AM, Jim Jablonski wrote:
Hi Mike,
I thought about doing that but let’s unpack this a bit more:
- The Sniper wiring has heavy red and black leads that are to be connected directly to the battery. I believe the little (14 gauge) yellow wire to be connected to the “clean 12v” is merely triggering a relay within the Sniper harness (there are a few built in it; one to power the fuel pump and another which I assume powers the ignition). If I add a relay before the yellow wire isn’t that merely “stacking” relays?
- If the cranking voltage is 11 volts, in the end there will be no more than 11 volts fed through a relay, anyway (during cranking), right?
Appreciate your guidance,
Jim
From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2022 07:47
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Off Topic: Looking for '68 Barracuda wiring diagrams
Jim,
Add a relay to feed the sniper. Tap the starter relay for power and trigger the relay with the old ballast resistor output (gut the resistor and rewire). That will get power during and after cranking.
Mike
On 12/14/2022 6:18 AM, Jim Jablonski wrote:
Indeed, Doug and Mike, those were my immediate suspicions. Oddly enough, after chasing this a bit I went to basics and tested voltage drop straight across the battery terminals and my cranking voltage is only 11 volts with two different known good batteries. Hmmm.
Now I’m not sure I have a problem, to be honest, other than this journey started with, according to Holley, the need for “a clean 12 volt ignition feed during both crank and run.”
I’m converting a 440 to Holley Sniper EFI (including Hyperspark ignition management), and in addition to feeding the EFI controller, the 12v ignition feed triggers the ignition module.
I think I’m just going to attempt living with this cranking voltage and hoping it’s sufficient for startup, knowing I have 12.6 volts during Run.
I’ll report back if interested.
Thank you,
Jim
On Tue, Dec 13, 2022 at 8:34 PM 'Doug' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
most electrical problems are a bad ground
On Tuesday, December 13, 2022, 08:17:28 PM EST, Michael <493mike@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
As always, check the bulkhead connections.
Mike
On 12/13/2022 1:34 PM, Jim Jablonski (GroovinJim) wrote:
Thanks Neal. Got it.
Now if I can just figure out why I am only seeing 10.5 volts during cranking I will be good :-D
Jim
On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 12:45:36 PM UTC-5 neal wrote:
jim, i got mine for my 68 off of "my mopar" , i believe. I just printed them out and had them laminated at the copy shop
neal zimmerman.
On Mon, Dec 12, 2022 at 12:11 PM Jim Jablonski (GroovinJim) <groov...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi folks. Hope the Christmas season finds you well.
I'm working on a friend's '68 Barracuda and in need of the underhood and IP wiring diagrams. If you have them would you please send or post?
Thank you,
Jim
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