RE: PAW 440

[tom hecht <baddd65@xxxxxxxxx>]

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where are all those 440's that are waiting to be rebuilt?
 
the fact is you could be charged 500 dollars for a block
and 300-500 for a crankshaft. these are core charges.
now lets add the heads, cam, rockers,waterpump,
timing components, pan, pump etc.etc.$$$$$
 
ok we built the motor, the going rate to "run" a motor,
to break in the cam is about 250 dollars around here.
minimum 4 hours a on dyno
the cost to cook and check a block is between 150-250
dollars.throw in another 100 to check the crank.
 
unless you have an engine,(who says the block or crank
isn't on its last bore or grind) and you are doing the work
yourself, it is very hard to have a 440 built for 2000 dollars.

ntolerance <ntolerance@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


I have found PAW to be overpriced. 

The SSI industry cams that they use are chevy profiles on mopar blanks. 
Basically, they are Chevy builders who build other engines too. I would 
stay away from their "crate" engines or long blocks. Chances are the 
cranks are like .030 / .030 and the blocks are on their last bore. Was 
the crank in the engine before the "rebuild"? Are all the rod and main 
bearings the same size? (Yes believe it or not, I have seen 8 cylinder 
engines with three different sized rod bearings). 

In reality though, think about this, if you have a problem with the 
engine, are they going to stand behind it? Is it pre-run and lubed? IS 
the engine balanced? Are they going to blame you if the engine fails, 
and leave you hanging high and dry? How do you prove you didnt ruin the 
engine in the first 10 minutes of start up? These are important things 
to ask before buying a "crate" engine from anyone.

My opinion? Leave them to the Chevy guys. 

Find someone local to do an engine for you. Preferably, if you have or 
are able to buy a running (even a poorly running) 440 and have a local 
machine shop look at it, you will have more security in your purchase. 
HAve the shop prelube and run the engine to take that responsibility off 
your shoulders. If it ran when it came into the shop, it had better run 
when it leaves.

Doc.

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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