RE: Help! How to turn stuck motor

[Kevin Merkley <krmerkley@xxxxxxxxx>]

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Hi Wade,

There is nothing stopping you from hooking the starter back up but I 
would not do that.  

If the engine is seized so tight that you have to beat on it and use a 
long pipe or johnson bar to get the flex plate bolts, I would not risk 
ruining the starter.

When the engine spins freely, by all means use the starter if you feel 
it necessary.  Are you hoping to get the engine free and then start it 
up?

If you want to start the engine you must bolt the flex plate back onto 
the torque converter.  The starter turns the ring gear on the torque 
converter and those flex plate bolts must be tight.

Regards,

K.




Wade & Landa Lawrence wrote:
> 
> Kevin:
> 
> Hey, this was a great answer, I appreciate the response.  One question
> though...what's to keep me from hooking the starter back up and quickly
> turning it over with the starter?   I plan on saving the engine (it's a
> numbers-matching car), but won't be doing anything with it.  Thanks!
> 
> Wade
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Merkley [mailto:krmerkley@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 6:09 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Help! How to turn stuck motor
> 
> 
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> 
> Hi,
> 
> You did not say if you intend to keep the engine or just get it
> disconnected from the tranny.
> 
> There are many solutions to this problem.
> 
> If you do not want the engine:
> 
> Pull the tranny off the engine leaving the torque converter on the flex
> plate as was sugggested. OR
> 
> You may be able to get at as many as three of the flex plate bolts from
> the bottom with the inspection plate and starter out of the way.  Then
> you may only need the engine to turn just enough to get the last bolt or
> two.
> 
> In any case, turning the engine over will be hard since if it overheated
> and seized, it may be the bearings as well as the rings.
> 
> I would pull the heads and soak each cylinder with penetrating oil and
> then pound on each piston with a hammer handle.  This needs to be done
> with an assistant who is on a johnson bar with a suitable socket on the
> crank pulley (1-1/4").  Keep pounding all cylinders and reefing on the
> crank nut until the engine turns enough to get at the required flex
> plate bolts.
> 
> Once the torque convertor is separated from the flex plate, the tranny
> can be left in the car and you can pull only the engine or pull the two
> together.
> 
> It will be easier to try to turn the engine over while it is in the car
> than out where it will roll all over the place when you reef on the
> crank nut.
> 
> Good luck and keep us posted.  We're all in this together.
> 
> K.
> 
> 
> Lawrence4@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> >
> > Gents:
> >
> > Need some advice:  I'm getting ready to pull the 361 out of my '62 Sport
> >
> > Fury.  I'm trying to turn the motor over by hand, so I can remove the
> > flexplate bolts.  BUT, I can't get it to budge.  A few months ago, the
> > motor got overheated and wouldn't run anymore (probably seized up?)  I
> > squirted some penetrant down into the cylinders, no luck.  I'm using a
> > 1/2" drive long-handled socket wrench (about 18" long).  I don't have an
> >
> > impact wrench.
> >
> > Any advice on how to turn this dude over?  Do I need a really long
> > breaker bar?  If I remove the heads, is there a way to turn it from the
> > top, or at least lube it up some more?  Thanks!
> >
> > Wade
> >
> > Wade Lawrence
> > '62 Sport Fury Golden Commando
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin R. Merkley
> Thunder Bay, Ontario
> 64 Dodge 440 2dr HT (Cdn)
> 
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> 



Kevin R. Merkley
Thunder Bay, Ontario
64 Dodge 440 2dr HT (Cdn)

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



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