RE: broken exhaust studs/bolts

[Earl Helm <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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One of the best ways to get out a broken stud is to weld a lever on to
it,
and turn it out. Especially with studs or bolds that go into a water
jacket
like the Mopars. The heat from welding a lever on to them will help
break
loose the old corrosion. I always do that before drilling.

Earl

-

Take a set of good bits, titanium or cobalt if you have them. Start with
a small bit in the center of the broken stud and drill it through. Get a
larger bit and drill that through. Keep increasing bit size until you
get the meat of the stud out and collapse the shell with a screwdriver
and a small hammer.  Chase the threads with a tap.  If it's set in with
locktite or anything like it, it won't come out easy so drill it out.
Watch your depth. That's one question I can answer from experience with
diesel engine pumps. Happens all the time to them.

Tom Duross


on the 1/8 one you could try to cut a groove in it and use a big screw
driver to get it to start backing out. I have had success with a small
pipe wrench on studs that stick out about 1/4" buut 1/8th  is a little
too small to get a bite on. the others look like your going to have to
try to drill a piolet hole and use the reverse thread bolt extractors. I
changed all the studs on my 440 heads  to bolts(except the end ones) and
they didn't want to come out without alot of wrenching and cursing. Be
sure to use more wrenching in your wrenching to cursing ratio...

>
>OK Guys/Gals - I'm working on a 78 360 Ramcharger that has headers and 
>header bolts with about 3 on each side broken.  I REALLY don't want to 
>pull the heads and need some old school stud removal methods.  I have a

>wire feed and a
>torch.  FYI the remaining bolts were hand tight and the studs and
collector
>bolts
>are currently soaking in Kroil.  One stud is sticking out about 1/8"
the
>rest
>are below the flange. I don't know how tight they are.  Anyone tried
those
>sears drill/extractor combos?  Any and all ideas welcomed.  Thanks in
>advance,
>Joe
>

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



b7yoMz.