Re: 400vrs 440

[Larry <ltny@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

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Is there any down side to the 346 heads, other than that they don't have hardened seats?  How do they compare to 906's and 452's?  I found a 400 engine with 346 heads for $100.
Larry 
> 
> From: Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: 2004/04/10 Sat AM 08:53:41 CDT
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: 400vrs 440
> 
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> Nothng wrong with Chucks advice except to say this is how we often get of base . "A 440 will not live above 650hp.( Questionable comment at best (seems to me at least) as a 440 shares the same dimensions as the hemi and no one in there right mind would say the hemi would not live a above 650. )
> First off we are not talking about building a 650 hp motor so the point is totally irrelavant and i do mean "Totaly". A high 500hp 440 will live forever. 
> Secondly we are talking about a stock type build as opposed to the High dollar approach which Muscle M and the boys there are used to. 
> It depends what you have available. If you have a 440 then it will always cost less to build than the 451 /400 variety . If you don't have a 440  but 400s are everywhere to be found then that makes the whole deal different. 
> A VERY strong 400 could be built  using a good 400 block and a slight overbore and the stock crank. Pistons are now available from Keith Black and are KB240. They come in 020 030 040 and i believe 060. I would go for the least overbore the block will stand as 400s (and 383s) tend to get a bit warm . 
> The stock rods are very stong and just resizing them with good bolts will make for a very stout assembly. Total seal rings , while not a must are an exremely good investment. Getting the deck heights as close to 0 as possible is time well spent. 
> A good set of heads. (346 or 452s preferred) with 2.14 or 2.18 intakes and 1.74 exhaust (you could put in the 1.81s if you desire although the engine will be very strong with the 1.74s) Ccing the heads is very important.(80ccs min , no more than 84cc max for street) Do the bowl work under the intakes , clean up the exhaust and gasket match the ports is all that is needed for the heads. A cam with over 500 lift (525 preferred ) and a fair chunk of duration (240+ at 050") with a set of the new MP single valve  springs for .540 lift. will round out the package. Be sure to shorten the guides as they are too long in these heads for the bigger cams (Retainer will hit the valve seal) When installing teflon oil seals this is automatic as the cutter takes care of it. 
> Stock rockers and pushrods work fine. Aftermarket pushrods are a bit lighter  )Sealed Power or TRW and just as strong) 
> A good intake works well such as a Edelbrock Perormer RPM (preferred choice) Carb must be big enough to feed the motor . 800 would be perfect, A reworked (no choke housing ) 3310 Holley will also do the job. Headers should have the same size ID as the exhaust valve or very close (ie 1 3/4s to 1 7/8 primary). Collectors could be lengthened about 7 to 8 inches (even with mufflers for street work) . Distributor should provide  32 to 34 total advance at 2700 to 3000 RPm with a very short curve. 
> Engine will be very strong . 
> Our Cheapy was built before the KB were available so we used reworked 440 + .030" pistons. (.010" in the 400 block ) but I would now use the KB240s (yes even though they are not my favourites) as they are well suited to this application. 
> Keep clearances on the high or looser side as nothing will kill a BB Mopar quicker than a Small Chevy style build where everything is tighter. (they are tighter because dimensions are smaller but machinists who build a lot of Chevys don't seem to realize that.) Rule of thumb for clearances is and always has been .001" per inch of diameter. It will never get you in trouble if you use that as a guideline. 
> We try to always use the three bolt cam set up and prefer the stock six pack , hemi style timing gear set over the exotic tru roller stuff. (Stays tight longer because there are fewer parts involved.)
> The one we built was installed in a 82 Mirada weighing 3450 and having 4.56 gears with 31 inch tire. It went 11.55 at 120 MPH consistantly. Had he had a descent converter (AKA Dynmaic Race) it would have dropped the et at least 2 to 3 tenths. Engine is be totally streetable and runs on sunoco 94. Cam is Hydraulic.
> Before those who would question this deal say anything let me please say this. Like our other stuff we tell about. We didn't think about this or dream it we actually did it and it is here alive and running, so that means only one thing , You can do it too. 
> If you would like to talk with the owner I can give you his email. 
> For the 440 the Old Reliable set up with a similar cam would be very very hard to beat. Same manifold but 850 to 870 carb would do the trick with a similar cam .
> Don 
> Either engine should be able to be built (minus manifold and carb of course) for under $2500 which is probably a real big problem because right now someone is sitting there thinking, "Bull! You can't build a strong engine for that!" but you can and we have , several times.
>  (So if that is you we will build you the same motor for $10000 and will paint it gold as well, just so you won't feel like you got a second rate deal.)
>  And it isn't no wussy either. It will put away motors costing many times as much and will live forever if you take care of it. Anyway that is the deal , Enjoy
> Don
> 
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