RE: 400 or 440

[Earl Helm <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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Earl



Well , I have found , and I just set a deal with a guy for an actual 71
block, that u are talking about, ends in 230, dated 7-30-71   and has
never been bored, ,  it has its original bore, and the guy is nice enuf
to hold it for 45 days on a 25 dollar deposit.I wont tell u what he
wants for the whole thing , but i think its a steal. One more question,
whats all this "cold weather block" stuff I hear about. My Senatore book
mentions this and says the numbers on the block are larger than normal,
how large is that, these letters look much bigger than normal.
  Neal Zimmerman, Eugene Oregon
On Thu, 8 Apr 2004 19:05:14 EDT, Joeydahook9@xxxxxxx said:
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>    I think the real difference is the web thickness in the early (230)
> blocks.  The webs are almost twice as thick as a 440 block, thus
making
> the block 
> theoretically stronger, as well as being about 65 lbs lighter.  Neal,
If
> you can 
> find the 400 blocks ending in the casting number 230, buy them all and
> you 
> will never lose money.  They only made them for about 8 months.  As
for
> building 
> a 400, they were cursed as a smog motor with low compression,
sometimes
> as 
> low as 7.6 to one, to run on whale oil.  They respond to nomal
> modifications.  
> Aftermarket high compression pistons are lighter, the 400 rods are
> shorter, 
> lighter and somewhat stronger than 440 rods.  If you have a 440 crank
> turned down 
> it will be lighter. and the engine size is physically smaller to fit
in 
> engine bays that normally have fitment problems with headers and
> starters.  A 
> properly built 400 stroker will rev like a small block and make hp/tq
> like a big 
> block, and will cost just a little more than building a 440.  This is
due
> to the 
> crank work which cost me 300.00.   Go for it!     Joe
> 
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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b7yoMz.