Re: Street, strip, or street/strip?

[Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>]

Andy,
I will reply to you and the list as your question is relevant to many of us,
however, it is a subjective question and the answer required is that each
person must determine their own needs/wants.

The basic increase in compression, hi-perf.cam, four barrel induction,
free-flowing exhuast modifications to raise the Poly (or any other Mopar
small block pertain) apply here.  The result in these modifications over the
stock powerplant will yeild appreciable gains in HP/Torque not so much to be
measured by the yardstick of actual HP/Torque output but "seat-of-the-pants"
feel which is the real determiner of satisfaction; getting into the
"numbers" game is good for ego & bench-racing until you arrive at the "next"
step.

The first step toward achieving your goal is putting your foot to the floor
and saying, "Yeah, I'm happy with that!" or "I think it could use more
torque for off the line acceleration..."

Therefore, to attempt to answer your question, "...where is the happy medium
between restoring a car like new and completely modifying it for strip use?"
I would say to apply the "basics" mentioned above; compression, cam...

First maxim is to completely rebuild your choice of engine (I will assume it
is the Poly 318).  Do it right, do it once; or at least provide a solid
platform that will accept more intensive HP-Torque mods w/o having to
upgrade your basic short block again and thus wasting money.  This is to be
accomplished by a reputable/experienced race shop familiar/fond of Mopar
engines.
Complete disassembly/tanking/magging of required engine components,
pocket-porting of the heads (unshrouding the valves/match& blend the ports
to the intake...) required milling to achieve 9.5-10 compression ratio w/o
buying forged pistons (precludes the use of forged pistons - approx.
$600-800 for some quality forged pistons),
iron guides/unleaded seats in the heads, performance valve job on stock 318
valves, attention to the stock rods & 318 steel crank, fully balance the
assembly, double roller timing chain, good balancer, have Racer Brown
regrind your cam to his rec. specs (perhaps 268/.450 or so for your intended
use) w/matching springs/retainers/moly pushrods/solid lifters, quality
bearings & fasteners (Clevite full groove/ARP), quality hi-volume oil & fuel
pumps (Melling/Carter mechanical or electric...), Flo-Kooler water pump,
electronic ignition (stock Mopar or MSD...), cast iron dual plane OEM Poly
intake or dual quad (twice the cost/tuning for multiple carb but twice the
WOW & GO-factor as well - I would assume you will go with the dual quad for
your intended purpose - part of the "next step"), quality TTI Poly headers
(if it happens) or pay for custom headers w/matching exhaust (well-worth the
money; the adage of  "do it right do it once" applies here; with room to
grow for any future modifications) as it will make all your internal engine
mods work as designed - it is the proper "matching" of components that will
set your engine/performance apart from the rest.
Now to handle all the increased HP/Torque, quality trans rebuild w/mild
stall convertor (assuming a Torqueflite vs. 4spd.) to match your cam
(approx. 1800-2500 stall 11") and Sure Grip rear to match your performance
goals (3.55 happy medium between "daily driver" and weekend strip warrior;
3.91 for more fun and dependance on fossil fuels).

It is my opinion that the above package/information will make you "happy"
(for now!).

Example of one of my "happy medium" packages:
67 Dart w/mild 340 (3400lbs. w/me in it):
1971 340 engine: 10.5 to 1 TRW pistons, 284/.484 hyd. Purple Shaft (good
dinosaur cam but there are much better grinds now available - Racer
Brown...), ported & polished heads/unleaded seats, stock 2.02/1.60 valves,
balanced assembly, Rollmaster chain, hi-volume oil & mechanical fuel pump
(stock oil pan), OEM 340 steel crank, press-fit 360 rods, ancient Edelbrock
LD340 dual plane intake w/850 Thermoquad, 1 5/8" Doug Thorley headers
through 2 1/2" H-pipe/Dynomax Super Turbos, "built" 904 Torqueflite w/low
gear set/3500stall Continental 10" convertor..., and 3.91 Sure Grip.

Results?  The "seat of the pants" feel is great; enjoyment immense, I like
the 3.91 gears even on the short freeway drives, 10mpg (don't care when I
only drive less than 2000 miles p/yr. - this is a "pleasure" vehicle), never
have to adjust the valves (hyd. cam chosen for that reason), timing remains
set at 17deg. intial/36 total, haven't timed/tuned in ten years and it still
runs 12.8 or better through the muffs at 106mph in the quarter (yeah there
is more in it...).
HP/Torque?  Chassis dyno results:
Peak HP is 268 @5600rpm
Peak Torque is 277 @3200rpm
Not impressive according to the "numbers" folk perhaps but then you need to
refer to the "Results" and comments in the body of this diatribe; it is fun
to drive.
There is power everywhere; off-the-line is great, mid is great, top-end is
great...

I hope I have helped answer your questions with objective and subjective
information.  The rest is up to you.  Let me know "off-line" if I can help
you further.

Respectfully,
Gary Pavlovich

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Grow" <andygrow@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 8:27 PM
Subject: Street, strip, or street/strip?


>
> OK...since things are now starting to move along on the '64 Polara 500
restoration/rebuild, I'm needing some guidance...and I may have my question
answered already, it might just be definitions I'm looking for.
>
> I want to build this car into a car that I can go to cruises with during
the week and take it to the drag strip and run it on the weekends (once I
get back to the lower 48, of course...!).  I've got the original 318, and I
know I can build that baby up to a respectable amount of hp and tq...but can
someone tell me what is too much hp and too much torque for "comfortable"
cruising around town?
>
> I've decided to keep the interior pretty much stock (restore it that way),
and the exterior ain't gonna change either (although I do want a fiberglass
hood w/some sort of scoop on it...).  But I guess what I'm asking is where
is the happy medium between restoring a car to like new, and completely
modifying it for strip use?
>
> Sheesh...I just re-read the above, and it's a bit vague, but I don't know
how else to put it, and I'm hoping (and guessing) that many of you know what
I'm talking about.  I sure hope so, don't wanna look like a fool!
>
> Andy
> 64 Polara 500
>
> --
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>
>

----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



b7yoMz.