Re: Wiring problem and questions

Just wondering.

When the smoke started appearing, was your car started (ignition key at the "On" position) and running or were you trying to start the car (key at the "Start" position). The wire from the voltage regulator joins with the wire from the ignition switch at the ballast resistor and that wire runs back to the ignition switch at Ignition 1. However, Ignition 1 is the circuit used when the engine has started and is running.

When starting the car, Ignition 2 position is used, and Ignition 1 (and the ballast resistor) get bypassed. So, if Ignition 1 at the ignition switch melted while you were trying to start the car, using Ignition 2 position, you might have problems with the ignition switch.

If you had the car started and running when everything melted, key at the "On" position, disregard the above.

Bill

Vancouver, BC

On 12 September 2017 at 09:53, Anthony Brummett <brummett@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I haven't driven my '64 Dodge in over 7 years, and spent the last several weekends getting it back in shape: new gas, oil, brake fluid, etc. I got it all working, drove the kids around the neighborhood and washed it. When I went to start it to put it in its parking spot, all the magic smoke escaped from under the hood.

The dark blue wire that runs from the ballast resistor to the voltage regulator burned in two, and the dark blue wire that runs from that same ballast resistor connector back to the bulkhead connector melted the insulation and took out most of the other wiring insulation in that bundle. The story I told myself was that the 50+ year old wire had corroded at the voltage regulator connector, broke and touched the firewall, which grounded that circuit and melted the insulation.

I rebuilt that wiring harness with new wires, with the right terminals and crimpers, and wire gauges called for in the FSM. That same circuit melted its insulation again when I tried to start the car. I also checked under the dash; that same circuit runs to the IGN1 terminal of the keyswitch, and it's melted, too.

My question is, besides fixing the wiring again, what's my next move? It seems like the VR's IGN terminal is internally shorted to ground. It's one of those solid state regulators dressed up to look like the original kind in the black can; I bought it years ago. Do they fail like that? How can I test it? The IGN terminal isn't a dead short to the case, but it's a lot lower resistance than I expected: 9 or 10 ohms maybe, I can't remember off the top of my head. Maybe it only fails when it's powered?

Any ideas?

-- Tony
'64 Dodge 440
'65 Dart GT

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