Neal,
This is an important electrical upgrade to your wiring system. I do it a little different:
If the bulkhead connector is good and no problems with the connectors you don't have to drill out the bulkhead connector. Just connect the two wires together that went to the ammeter and modify the rest of the wiring per the drawing. MAD I am sure is the best way and the only good way if the bulkhead is damaged however with the alternator directly feeding power to the starter relay to the battery and NOT through the bulkhead connector the possibility of a future problem is very small. Also per the drawing power is going through the bulkhead connector through 2 wires and not 1 wire in and 1 wire out that carried all of the alternator output.
I used the fusible links on my two cars. I carry extra lengths of fusible wire in the event I ever have a problem. I am considering switching to fuses:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wiring-gurus-fusable-link-or-maxi-fuse.355562/Your voltmeter just needs a good ground and a switched 12 volt source to work plus wiring for the light.
Take Care
Dennis
On Saturday, August 12, 2017 at 12:56:18 AM UTC-7, neal wrote:
Has anybody heard of the MAD electrical upgrade to bypass factory ammeter. (
www.madelectrical.com) . They have numerous articles but this one caught my eye. Basically running juice from alternator directly to starter relay instead of through firewall connector and all up through the dash. You fuse the thick red and black wires where factory ammeter used to sit. You still need this loop to feed ignition switch, etc. This loop is also attached to starter relay. They also by pass the fragile firewall connector for these two wires. Supposed to reduce risk of melt down greatly. And of course then you need to install an aftermarket voltmeter in place of the now absent factory ammeter..
MAD isn't just Mopar but this upgrade is specifically for Mopar. They do it on a 79 Dodge truck but it should work on the older stuff too.
neal