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You do want a good quality T-stat like RobertShaw that FlowKooler sells. I have both their pump and the RobertShaw T-stat on my Poly and a 472 Cadillac engine. Good info and a whole
bunch of it about overheating on their FAQ’s page: http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/ A 160 will open sooner that a 180. But that is all, an engine running 180 or higher will run the same temp with both T-stats if they both function properly. From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Don't think it was air locked. I let it run with the cap off until it was clearly circulating indicating that the stat was open. I took it out and drove it around town a little never getting too far from home. The temp came up to about
3/4 on the gauge and stayed there. But with the 160 stat it should not have been that high so I came home and let it idle a little. The gauge never came down so I shut it off and waited awhile, then checked the radiator and was able to add about 1 or two
quarts of water. Then took it back out and drove it for a few blocks again with the same result. When I would pull back into the driveway and shut it off it would be percolating and steaming a little. It would push about a quart of coolant into the overflow
canister and then after a little bit pull it back into the radiator. I've got an infrared heat gun but did not check temp between upper and lower hose. I also thought about drilling a small hole into the flange of the thermostat but didn't. When I have it apart tomorrow I definitely will. Paul L. I spent the last two days dropping my 440 back into the Sport Fury. It has been sitting for the last 14 months due to a detonation problem and a broken piston. The long time lapse was due to a machinist who had it for more than eight
months without doing any work on it. So I finally just went and picked it up. Rich K. and Dodger recommended a machinist who is a Mopar guy, but he is also busy. The top land broke off of one piston and upon inspection discovered that, that had produced a big dent in the cylinder wall, which could result in a crack. So it was recommended to sleeve that cylinder, which then means the others have
to be bored. As it was explained to me the cylinders adjacent to the sleeved one get distorted in the process so they need to be bored to bring them back to round so all the others need to be bored as well. But at last it is ready. As luck would have it the weather is cooperating and it hasn't been too cold in my unheated garage. So if everything goes to plan I should be able to fire it up tomorrow. And the weatherman is forecasting temps
in the 50's for the next couple days so I might even be able to go for a bit of a cruise. Wish me luck. Paul L. -- -- -- Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. |
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