Re: Timing on New Engine?

It is necessary to scroll way down the Rock Auto page to see the intermediate shaft but Ricky (Plucked Chicken) gave you the best picture, it shows all of the associated parts.

Dennis C.

On Thursday, November 13, 2014 7:08:45 AM UTC-7, dennis.1963ply wrote:

I'll give it a try,

Check this link and click on the "info" block and it will show you a picture of the shaft.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1329869&parttype=14256

What Rich and others are trying to say is that this shaft drives off of the cam shaft, the lower end of the rod goes into the oil pump and drives the oil pump. The distributor tang goes in to the top where the gear is located.

I looked and I don't have a picture of a poly from the rear but if I recall the vacuum advance should point towards the right cylinder bank looking at the engine from the rear.

When the distributor is installed with the vacuum advance in the correct location the rotor must point to #1 cylinder when #1 cylinder is on TDC and compression stroke.

If it is not possible to point the rotor to #1 cylinder it could be 180 degrees out as mentioned, if so just lift up the distributor turn the rotor 180 and put it back in.

If however it is not possible to point the rotor to #1 cylinder the intermediate shaft needs to be rotated until rotor can be oriented correctly.

There are issues with turning the intermediate shaft.

First I like to measure from the block to the top of the intermediate shaft gear. I use this to help me know when I have the gear mated to the oil pump.

The shaft must lifted up, that is where the magnetic pick-up tool works very well, just put it on the gear and lift up, the shaft should come up. As it comes up notice that it rotates, the gear is not a straight cut gear. Look at the end of the intermediate shaft, it mates with the oil pump.

Now it is trial and error, look at the tang on the distributor and notice how it is oriented when the rotor is in about the #1 cylinder position. turn the intermediate shaft and and try to orient the slot where it looks like it should be, put it back in. If it will not go all of the way down you will need to rotate the oil pump by reaching down with a long screwdriver or you can turn the engine about a half turn each way until it drops into the oil pump - DO NOT go too far, be sure you can come back to TDC on compression.

Reinstall the distributor and check if you are on #1 with the rotor, if not try again. It can take several times to get it where you like it, Due to the way the gear is cut it rotates as it goes down. I attached a page from an old Motor's Manual that may also help.

I hope I did not make too much of a mess of this but once you get started it should start making sense to you. The rotor needs to be on #1 cylinder on compression stroke for the engine to run. You said you did not have a pointer for the harmonic balancer that is why I suggested that you find and mark TDC in my first response.

Once it is running you can check with a timing light however you will need to do the cam break-in as soon as it starts and running if possible.

Good Luck
Dennis C.

On Thursday, November 13, 2014 2:38:54 AM UTC-7, Bubba wrote:

OK, Maybe we are getting above my level of competence (the Peter principle) here. Can someone (off list if desired) send me information on the "intermediate shaft" and what it does, and how it would be something that would keep my poly for firing?

If the distributor is properly installed (I am thinking it might be 180 off) how would the distributor shaft stop it from firing in time to start the engine, and what can be done to correct it? I don't think it would be an issue of it being broken since the engine just came back from a fresh rebuild.

Larry

In a message dated 11/12/2014 10:29:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, leroar.k...@xxxxxxxxx writes:

It's the shaft that drives the oil pump off the cam and has a slot in top of it for the dist shaft to rest in. It is the cam drive mechanism for both the oil pump and dist. There is a heavy duty one made that is the preferred choice in that it has a beveled area near the pump drive that helps prevent breakage. They are known to break causing oil and timing issues.

On Nov 12, 2014 9:24 PM, "Robert Faunce" <bobsbe...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi - please explain what you mean by the intermediate shaft.

On Nov 12, 2014 9:38 PM, "Richard Kinsley" <leroar.k...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Very true. I forgot about the intermediate shaft. A long screw driver and a magnetic pick-up make it easy to adjust.

On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 4:38 PM, Michael LeFevre <493...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Larry,

I didn't see any mention of the distributor intermediate shaft. I must be clocked properly with the cam gear to position your rotor properly.

Mike LeFevre

On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 12:08 AM, ALIENVOICE via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to19...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I am finally trying to get my 318 poly engine started after a full rebuild, and am not sure that I have the distributor dialed in close enough to get it firing. Definitely getting fuel and spark, as it has backfired through the carb and out the exhaust manifold (no exhaust on it right now, as the old exhaust was toast).

Nice flame through the carb, and out the exhaust manifold, but no sign that it is going to start. Tried to see if I could use the timing light, but could not find the timing tab (maybe they left it off or lost it?). I can see the timing mark on the damper, but without a timing tab, doesn't seem to be much help. Tried moving the distributor, but not really successful. Might be 180 degrees out?

Engine is a newly-rebuilt 318 poly, new 4bbl Edelbrock Performance carb, factory iron intake/exhaust.

Thoughts? Really wanted to get it going before the cold came through, but it's rolling into Ohio tonight.

Larry (Akron)

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Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies

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