RE: 225/Oil

With new cars it can be a lot different. Recommended oil change for a new Ford plug-in hybrid is at 20,000 miles.

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Hall, Ricky L
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 3:47 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: 225/Oil

Well peeps most def change oil too often - with the 3,000 / 2 month mantra still being promoted by quick oil change places, and auto parts chains.

What convinced me it’s OK to go more miles and time, ran my 2007 GMC diesel truck out 1 year and 10,000 miles and had the used oil analyzed - still had life left. The wife’s 2010 MINI goes a year too, but only sees 6,000 or so a year. I have the kids run their Mazda cars out 6 months or a year if they have not hit 7,500 miles per the manual. One son just forgot and put 10,000 on his Sonata and I am sure it was still protecting the engine - he drives 30,000 miles a year all freeway.

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ollie
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 12:37 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 225/Oil

Ricky, my /6 doesn’t get many miles, its been a couple years since I changed it and its still pretty yellow looking new oil. The racing oil I took out looked great too.

My pressure gauge with racing oil was 80-100...now I run about 60 all the time.

Ollie

From: Hall, Ricky L

Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 2:19 PM

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: RE: 225/Oil

How about time wise Ollie. Since I only do a couple thousand miles in my collector cars a year, I change the oil/filter once a year in the Spring as the main driving season starts.....

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ollie
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 12:17 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 225/Oil

I took the liberty to change the subject line.

I use straight 30W Texaco Havoline in my /6. I used Valvoline Racing Oil 20-50W and my oil pressure was to high.

I use Mobil One 10-30w Synethic in my AMC since overhaul, changing every 5k.

Ollie

From: Steve Mick

Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 1:34 PM

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: 225

Now then, with the slant six--would it be better to use diesel oil, raceing oil, or common motor oil with ZDDP additive?.......................MO 8-)

{Steve Mick}
http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5

----- Original Message -----
From: Hall, Ricky L
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 9:05 AM
Subject: RE: 225

It is obviously a MoPar conspiracy............

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ray Bell
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 7:02 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 225

There's one thing I don't understand...

I have proved with these diagrams that the engine is NO LOWER AT ALL. Yet each time I have stated that someone comes back and says it's lower. It definitely is no lower!

The cylinder head casting, in fact, is higher with the engine slanted. Look closely at the diagrams.

The lower centre of gravity is principally because the camshaft and lifters are significantly lower and the right side of the engine is lower. The left side of the engine is higher. A further lowering of the centre of gravity could have been achieved by the retention of an alloy intake manifold, even more with an alloy head.

Yes, the engine bay in the Australian cars was the same as US cars until 1969, the only differences being in the chassis rails where the steering box and idler arm are mounted.

As to engine length, the shortness of the engine relied on two things. First, the bore centres being close together; second the water pump being mounted to one side. BOTH of these could have been achieved with a vertical engine.

The engines sat no lower in the Australian cars, they didn't have to. The suspensions were no lower, that would never work here.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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