I believe what everyone is trying to tell you is you have two choices. If you want to update your axles and bearings you can stick with your tapered axle rear end and replace the bearings and seals or.... 2. you can swap it out for a '65 and up "B" body axle of the correct width (which you won't find since they are all wider than yours). These really are your only choices unless you're willing to do a lot of fabrication on your existing axle housing and have new axles machined for a modified housing.--
In order to use non tapered axles in a tapered axle housing the housing ends will need to be cut off and later model ends using the proper bearings and seals welded in place. The bearings and seals are different between tapered axles and non tapered, so tapered axle bearings won't work with later model housings and axles. With new later model housing ends in place your axle width won't be the same either so you'll have to find longer axles that can be shortened to fit, or have custom axles made to the length you require. Nothing will just "slide in" and work off the shelf.
However, I have to ask why you feel the need to change out your tapered axles? They are plenty strong and unless you plan on making this a race car you don't need to change them at all. These axles stood up very well behind the max wedge cars of the early 60's so unless you're going to throw 500+hp at them on a regular basis they're fine. Also the 741, 742 and 489 center sections can all be used in tapered axle housings. Just keep in mind you need to buy gears based on the housing you're using.
Now, this is important. If your original rear was an open unit, swapping in a sure grip will require some mods. Prior to '64 there were differences in thrust block thickness (axle shaft thrust spacer) between open and sure grip diffs which required two different length axles to be manufactured for each rear end housing. The open diff thrust blocks were about 1/4" thicker than the sure grip style. If you're unit was originally a sure grip.. there is no problem and everything will fit fine, but if it was an open diff your axles will need to be shortened slightly (on the inner end) in order to fit properly with the sure grip unit. This is something you'll probably want to have done at a machine shop unless you feel brave enough to try shortening them at home.
I strongly suggest you use the "kiss" method and just rebuild your tapered axle diff. It will be less costly, and just as strong as any other 8 3/4 out there. Change the chunk and gearing if you need to, but you'll save yourself a lot of grief and money by sticking with the tapered axle unit. The main complaint about the tapered axle units has always been the difficulty in servicing the brakes. I wrote the article on converting tapered axle brakes to '65 and later replaceable drums, so if you have any questions on how to do that particular mod I can help you.
On Tuesday, September 2, 2014 11:00:04 AM UTC-5, BCBOUND wrote:OKI will add the following to the list of non answers to the original question of replacing tapered axles in a 63 8 3/4 housing with later flanged axles...- complete '65 rear axle assemblies will bolt right in...- you can make anything work if you throw enough money at it...anyone else have any tidbits of knowledge that they want to bestow onto the rest of us?can anyone answer the tapered to flanged axle conversion question?
From: Gary Wilson <gwwil...@xxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars <1962to19...@ googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 2, 2014 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Mopar Tapoered Axle Brake Coversion Link
I took a 65 cornet rear housing complete from drum to drum and install it in my 64. bolted right in. measure the one from the 66 from inside backing plate to backing plate and see if it matches the one from your 63 in width. may have to move spring pads a little bit and then again maybe not
On Mon, Sep 1, 2014 at 9:31 PM, 'BCBOUND' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to19...@ googlegroups.com> wrote:
OK - Originally, I posted and asked if any actually knew for sure if it was possible to exchange 63-64 tapered axles for 65 up flanged axles in my 8 3/4 741 case with 3.23 sure grip. I need to install a 4.10 Sure grip. Do the 63 and 66 Axles have the same axle housings? Can I swap in the complete 66 Axle assembly IF I use the correct length axles?So far, I have learned that:- it IS NOT POSSIBLE as bearings are different- it IS POSSIBLE and a simple swap if all compatible parts are used- Green bearings suck,- Green bearings do not suck- Its easy to replace Wheel Studs,- Its easy to upgrade brake drums,- the spacers in early and late sure grip units are differentSo far no one has offered any advice from personal experience concerning the exchange of tapered axles for flanged axles and what is needed for the swap......Does anyone have an empty 53-64 8 3/4 housings to examine for fitting green or stock adjustable bearings? Are the bearing retainer plates the same between 63-64 and 65 up?
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