--hI,I don’t know if your rear drum design is the same as my 62 Phoenix (Dart). I had no luck removing rear drums. I suspect rear brakes had not been working for 20 years before I purchased the car. One drum would not budge. We broke pullers, burred steel with hammers etc.I finally tracked down a guy who makes a rear drum puller that works the way they used to 50 years ago. It pulls by the wheel studs. He was kind enough to send me the really hard bits to find, such as 1/2” UNC left hand thread couplers and threaded bar. I made the puller similar to his design.Brake drums came off very easily with this special puller.Colin WolfFrom: neal zimmermanSent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 11:10 AMTo: 1962to1965moparsSubject: Re: rear drum headachesI think this design is one of mopars real boners. How u are supposed to get all that handled through 2 tiny mouse holes is beyond me? I mean couldn't they have made the holes a little bigger?yep did all that, no dice, just had to tear the drum off. Drum and backing plate are fine, all else inside there was destroyed by the time I got done. The way I figure is something was installed wrong because there was no contact to push out the actuating lever for star wheel. I mean I fished around for 2 hours trying to find the sweet spot to push it out, nothing just air.I still can't figure it out. luckily the hard to find stuff is unharmed. just have to buy new shoes and kits. Cylinder might be ok.On the other wheel there is something wrong there too as the actuating lever rides too high on starwheel and couldn't possibly bite it.Can u guys share your methods and tools of how you work in there.neal--
On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 1:50 PM, <Dodger7998@xxxxxxx> wrote:
--have you used a light to look in the adjustment hole to see if you can see the star wheel,,,,,the entire assembly will probably come off by hand if you remove the brake line, take the bolts out of the wheel cylinder, and grind off the heads of the t-bolts that hold the shoes in place, doing it this way will warrant possibly only having to replace the t-bolts if everything else is okayIn a message dated 10/22/2013 3:44:21 P.M. Central Daylight Time, neal.zimmerman@xxxxxxxxx writes:--Neal Zimmerman, Eugene OregonThe left one came right off.Hi all ,hope I can get some answers. Car;64 barracuda with modern 8.75 rear ( 4.5 inch bolt pattern)I am looking the rear brakes over before fire up, as the car has been sitting for 3 years in my carport. I know I had the drums off a couple years ago when I swapped out the pumpkin. But now the right one is tight as hell and i cannot get it off. I know how the star wheels and levers are supposed to work and the supposed procedure for rough adjustment, but i CANNOT get the right drum to budge. I have nuked it with PB Blaster , banged it with a hammer, then a bigger hammer, tried numerous times to get in there and push off the lever and spin the star wheel, have made 3 different "modified " screwdrivers" to try to find the lever. I am getting pretty frustrated I even made sure the e-brake was not on. I suppose the starwheel could be rusted up, but this is all new stuff in there. I suppose the previous owner might have not doctored the starwheel innards with anti-sieze like I have always done. I don't know. Anybody ever gone through this? I suppose a puller of some sort might be able to yank it off and take the shoes and springs along with it
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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