Correct me if I'm wrong, but a solid lifter, is a solid lifter, Magaflux for cracks. If none, good to go?
DJFrom: "mrdozerman@xxxxxxx" <mrdozerman@xxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: Buy New or Re-Face Solid Lifters?
One way to look at it is that a used part is a proven part! I am quite sure I wouldn't reuse any lifter once your into the engine....just saying ... Russell
-----Original Message-------
From: Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 5:05 am
Subject: Re: Buy New or Re-Face Solid Lifters?
Rock Auto is a little cheaper but only has 1. Bill M 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1 73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie 21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3 On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 7:41 AM, Michael LeFevre <493mike@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Bill, > I have no information on any heat treating your lifters might have had when > new but that would be a consideration. Also if you are going to run stronger > than stock valve springs I would be very leary! > Did you price new tappets on Rock Auto? I've got the new discount code if > you need it. > Mike LeFevre > > On Tue, Nov 13, 2012 at 9:01 AM, Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: >> >> What's the general consensus on replacing vs. re-facing solid lifters? >> >> New are ~$7.60 ea. I've found Re-facing for $2-$3 ea. >> >> Just thinking about it for my poly stroker project. >> >> Bill M >> 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1 >> 73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie >> 21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3 -- -- -- Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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