Re: Brake blues!
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Re: Brake blues!



Actually I think you could cut the studs flush with or just above the drum surface, and drill out the center of the stud material down to the swedged metal of the bolt.Then push it out.
The drum is already ruined, so it really can't be messed up any more, but the hub could be ruined
A careful, thoughtful approach is key here. 
The cutter that is needed is unique, therefore probably very expensive, and very hard to locate.
Drilling it carefully like I'm suggesting is probably a cheaper alternative way to repair.

    Jimmy

On 2/11/2012 9:37 PM, Herb wrote:
NO, you don't cut the studs off.  You have a drill bit (Like a hole cutter) that fits over the threaded part and cuts the swedged part off relishing the drum and enabling them to press the studs out of the hubs.  They then press the new studs back into the hub and swedge the drum to the hub/stud assembly via the extra material on each studs shank.  If a machine shop (Ask them how they are going to do it, don't tell them) does not know what your talking about when you ask them if they can R&R the drum from the hub than all you have are parts replacers that happen to have expensive equipment to play machinist with.  If you want your car to be their guinea pig platform so be it.
 
 
 
 
     Herb
 
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
1963 Fury 2D/HT 7.0L
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360
1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
St. Louis, MO.
 
 &
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Jacob Fox
Date: 2/11/2012 7:21:46 PM
Subject: Re: Brake blues!
 
So jimmy, when asking a shop should I just ask for the took to cut off studs or for them to "swag" it? Someone said something about cutting the studs yet others talk about swagging. Idk of any shop around here knows how to work on an old Mopar!
 
Sent from my iPhone
 
On Feb 10, 2012, at 4:40 PM, Jimmy Peavy <peaver63@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
 
> To Swage or swedge is usually defined as re-shaping metal to a desired form.
> An example is to form a swage nipple, creating a pipe nipple that is funnel shaped. A pipe nipple that has two different pipe diameter ends. Usually a 1/2"x 3/4" , a 3/4"x1" , etc, or put more simply, a reducer.
> Normally both ends are concentric, but not always.
>
>  Jimmy
>
> On 2/10/2012 4:16 PM, Jacob Fox wrote:
>> I called a shop in town, said swagging is heating up the drum or hub an getting it off...idk if that's right. They told me to bring everything and they'll "figure it out" lol
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 10, 2012, at 1:09 PM, Jimmy Peavy<peaver63@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>  wrote:
>>
>>> I'll bet my paycheck it's China.
>>>
>>>   Jimmy
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> --
>>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>>>
>>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
>
> --
> --
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
 
--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
 


--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.


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