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It is certainly your prerogative to do as your think best ,,,,, that
information is from a gentleman that spent 40+ years building and rebuilding
everything from stationary engines to drag cars all over the globe,,,,,, it is
what worked best for him, and is info that he had passed on to the site about 5
years ago,,,,
In a message dated 8/18/2011 5:06:28 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
a440plus6@xxxxxxxxx writes:
I don't
think I'd smear up the lifters with wheel bearing grease cause the lifters are
supposed to spin in the lifter bores......I would not do it on a standard
cam.
On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:30 PM, Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Here's what Don Dulmage had to say way back when about cam
break in. (Not necessarily for Rich, who knows what he's
doing.)
Re breakin. Here is what we do and we have had good success
although it is harder than it used to be according
to al accounts from experienced builders.
I use the supplied cam lube
drirectly on the lobes . i also smear the whole cam liberally with wheel
bearing grease and dip each lifter in the greease on its bottom before
installing it. I do not use multigrade oils but use Dg
diesel truck oils 40 wt or 50 if it is really hot weather
(90f+) I prelube the engie (using my intervenus prelube invention but a
drill running the oil pump is fine also.
I make sure the engine will fire
immediatley . timing set in the will run for sure zone and i fill the carb
float bowls manualy. When the ngine fires I DO NOT EVER let it
idle for at least 20 minutes but keep it around 2000 to 2500
jabbing the throttle occasionally . if I need to adjust or fix
something I shut it off and restart with throttle applied .
When the 20 minutes is reached I shut it off and change the oil
and filter while it is still smokin hot. This removes my
assembly lubes while they are still suspended in the oil at temp. I refill
with my same good oil and drive it
like i stole it .
The number one
best way to make sure you lose a cam BTW is to crank the engine
over on the starter till you have oil pressure. By the time
you have pressure you already dont have a cam.
Avoid cranking and idling like it was the plague.
So far this has worked for me well and i am in 35 plus years but i still
worry as much as ever and even more since lifter manufacture became a
martial art form and moved to aisa.
Don
Regarding "Drive it like
you stole it...", I think he meant step on it, but I've always avoided
incarceration by keeping my stolen vehicles under the speed limit.
Just sayin' ...
- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara
500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street
Wedge)
'71 Bronco
On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 11:04 AM, Richard Kinsley
<leroar.kinsley058@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
You are right but this is not a new engine. Only the
heads and cam are changed. The cam will break in before the parade so all
is well there. It's the same short block that has been in the car since
'06. It doesn't have many miles on it though. I just cleaned it up and
checked it out.
But yes a parade would be a disaster for a fresh engine. The time of
year, hot, and the conditions, extremely slow, really test your cooling
system! My potential problem is that the tune will be off for the new
combo. I don't want to run lean and fry it.
Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly
w/goodies
======================================================================================================================================
On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 8:50 PM, Jay <shelby_nut@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
|
Isn't a parade probably the worst way to break in a new
engine? I'm no master engine builder but if I recall part of
the break in procedure is varying the rpm's, loading and unloading
the engine, etc to help seat the rings, putt putting along in a
parade at extreme temperatures (your engine going to run even
hotter with a fresh, tight rebuild) is probably not a great way to
do it...I hope you'll be doing the following (or your preferred
variation) on Friday...
1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before
high revs.
2. Drive the car easy for the first 10 miles or so,
varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing
the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the engine bring the
revs back down by coasting in gear (vaccum pulls).
4. Repeat
several times in order to create maximum heat in the
cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RPM's for several more
miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of
miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the
engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more
times.
(This is just a break-in procedure I found on the net from a
35 year engine builder, they all seem to have there own variation
but the concept is similar, varying speeds, varying loads)
Jay
From:
Richard Kinsley <leroar.kinsley058@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
Short block installed
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Received:
Tuesday, August 16, 2011, 7:48 PM
Today with the help of Dodger and Terry Bohnart I got the
short block in place on LeRoar. Everything is going fine. Next
Sat, Aug 20th is the Bellevue parade. I am trying to get it
ready for the parade. The heads are due to arrive on Thursday. I
will install them in the car. I won't have much if any time to
tune so I hope it is close enough. A parade is the most severe
test you can have for your cooling system. I'll keep my fingers
crossed.
Also Dodger told me our 1/8th mile track is gone forever.
The flood wiped it out and the health dept won't let them
rebuild unless they replace the soil as it is supposedly
contaminated by sewage from the flood.
-- Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly
w/goodies
|
-- Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly
w/goodies
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