Re: Overheating Stumped...

["Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hello,

I just took my 64 with a 318 auto for a 30 mile drive at 108 degrees
outside air temperature.

On the drive the dash temperature gauge held steady between the "R&A"
which is straight up.

After about a mile in town to my house the temperature gauge went up
to point at the "A".  I checked the temperature with an IR gun, I
found the best place to get inlet temperature was on the top of the
thermostat housing and I checked the water outlet connection:
    214 degrees in / 203 degrees out

I let it idle in the yard for 20 minutes, the temperature gauge went
up to between the "A&T".  I again checked temperatures:
    217 degrees in / 209 degrees out, it did not seem to want to go
higher however I have seen it near the end of the white band on hotter
days.

These gauges are not always that accurate, your readings may be
completely different than mine.

My radiator is stock.  The rows are 9/16" on center and it has about
14 fins per inch, there are 40 rows across the radiator.  I am running
a 4-blade stock fan, no shroud.  I measured the thickness of the core,
it is 1 7/8" thick.  The easy way is to stick something like a wire
through then measure the wire.  However the engine is stock.

I liked the comment that new and improved may not be better.  That is
what I found on my 63 with a 383 when I had my stock radiator
recored.  The new core was a 3-row but only about 10 fins per inch.
It did not cool.  Then I bought the new U.S. Radiator.

I'm sure this has been mentioned and you have checked but timing and
fuel mixture can make a difference.

Just for reference I took the following measurements on my U.S.
Radiator that is on my 63 SF with a 383.  This radiator cured my over
heating problems.  You may want to compare them to your new radiator

Please keep in mind that all of these measurements are approximate
done with a tape measure.
4-row radiator
rows are on approx. 7/16" centers, there are 55 rows across the
radiator.
the core depth is approximately 3 5/8" deep
fins per inch are approximately  14 per inch
stock 7-blade fan, no shroud

I hope some of this may help.  I have been where you are.

Take Care
Dennis




On Aug 13, 10:32 am, Bill M <y1topbanan...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> So I'm trying to diagnose the issue that's causing my new 4-core
> radiator to make the car run hotter than with my previous 3-core
> radiator. Not only does it run hotter at cruising, but it starts
> getting hot IMMEDIATELY upon stopping at a light to the point of being
> scary.
>
> Basically the only thing I changed id the radiator. Car is 318 Poly
> with a mild cam, 7 blade fan, fan clutch (confirmed working), no
> shroud (never had one), now new 180 deg high-flow t-stat, spring in
> lower hose.
>
> The symptom I cant figure out now is...after testing things today and
> keeping an eye on temps w/ a laser thermometer, I turned it off to let
> it cool and scratch my head. When the rad, and upper hose had cooled
> to ~165, the lower rad hose was dead cold. I pulled it off and there
> is no restriction in the hose or the pump. I looked in the water pump
> from below and don't see anything up there either. It's not leaking
>
> Any thoughts??
>
> Bill M
> 65 Coronet 500 'verthttp://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html
> 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
> 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3

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