The only time I play doctor and prescribe medication is when I try it on myself and can show results. Very seldom will you hear me say I know a guy that did this or that.
Success in any paint job is the preparation, we all know that. Our old engines retained their paint with an added protective layer of grease, oil and dirt. Times have changed, we car owners now for the most part keep our engine compartments and what's in them clean and shinny for cruising and shows. Back in the 60's we cruised everyday, sun, rain, snow, but never opened our hoods to show spectators. Engine paint has also changed with the times, no matter what color it is, it's now "enviro friendly green", as well as the primers they require, unlike the "Red Lead" we used in the Navy.
I had been having a problem with my Max Wedge, the right valve cover started blistering next to the Max Wedge exhaust manifold. Unlike those who run headers I can't remove the valve cover without removing either the exhaust or intake manifold, also a plus with adjustable rocker arms when you need too...you know what. I've seen 383's & 440's all with HP exhaust manifolds also blister the paint on right side valve cover and the heat riser area of the intake manifold. All with the new and improved Mopar engine paint. I tried a repair with Dupli-Color 500F Ceramic Engine enamel, blistered the first day.
A heat gun showed my exhaust manifolds to be 743F right side and 740F left. My cure was to us VHT Very High Temperature 1300-2000F Header Paint on my valve cover, first using matching primer after preping. I brushed painted the valve cover in place and also made .015 aluminum heat shield, no more problem. This paint works when cured as per instructions. Bake at 250F for 30 min. and let cool for 30 min. Bake at 400F for 30 min, let cool for 30 min. Bake at 600F for 30 min. and let cool. My bake temperature was the temperature coming off the exhaust manifold. With a heat gun the recipe was easy.
BTW, I know a guy, LOL, there I've said it, that had his MW exhaust manifolds ceramic coated inside and out. Reduced heat and no paint blistering on his valve covers, I've seen it last for years.
Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63
Don,
Good point, I meant the paint is good to 1200F, quote from the can "Resists Heat Up To 1,200F", photo attached.
Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63
From: "Donald Gallimore" <dongallimore@xxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2011 8:20:24 AM
Subject: Re: Header paint
From: "furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxx" <furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Fri, August 12, 2011 11:33:59 PM
Subject: Re: Header paint
--Rich,
My TTI headers were installed on my old engine in July 2005, and were c-coated from TTI as were yours. The headers had some scratches, stains etc. and were repainted and installed on the new engine in July 2010, driving the car since Sep. 2010 they look as good as the day I painted them. I used Eastwood Silver High Temp Coating Part #10175Z, heat up to 1200F. You know my engine, it works, that's it. Photo attached of painted headers upon installation.
Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63
From: "Richard Kinsley" <leroar.kinsley058@xxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 10:53:09 PM
Subject: Re: Header paint
Thanks Nick. Rich KinsleyOn Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 4:38 PM, <furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Rich,
When I get home tonight I'll give you the info on what I used to redo my TTI's for the Poly stroker. The paint is as good as it was a year and a half ago when I did them.
Nick Tiberio
FuryUs63
From: "Richard Kinsley" <leroar.kinsley058@xxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 4:03:44 PM
Subject: Header paint
My TTI's have taken quite a bit of abuse over the last 5 or so years. Besides being rubbed raw they are quite stained from misc oils and other fluids. I don't want to spend $250 to have them recoated and mainly the timing would be an issue. I already have lost all the season so far and don't want any more slow downs. I am planning to clean them as best I can with acetone and then use the VHT header paint in a similar silver color. I was thinking of the stainless steel paint I used on the intake and front cover but that stuff is three times as expensive as VHT and is rated at 400deg whereas the VHT is something like 1500deg..I know header paint has always been an issue but I want something to work NOW and it can be redone on the next build in a couple years. Anybody with previous experience?--
--
Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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--
Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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