Re: Headliner install

[Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx>]

Good link Neil, thanks.  Here's a pile of random headliner links and
posts I've cobbled together.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0608_mopar_car_headliner_replacement/index.html

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0210_how_to_replace_your_headliner_on_your_dodge_dart/index.html

http://www.hotrod.com/howto/76318_headliner_installation/index.html

http://www.restorick.com/tech/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5

the headliner material  is folded over the lip that follows the
roofline down the rear windows and glued and clipped till dry then the
chrome that holds the rubber above the glass is reinstalled and that
also helps hold it i found this to be the hardest part to get to look
correct take your time and keep adjusting before you cement it!

Quote - “I'm not sure if my calling them sail panels is correct.”
Close enough for me Steve! That “dark stiff fiberboard” that the
lights were attached to if not broken away, would have the same shape
of the entire sail panel (C pillar) area. The board material was the
backing used with some ¼ inch or so of insulation on it much like the
other insulation pads throughout the car - under the dash and kick
panels etc. As per your description and my memory, I believe as you
said, the insulation side of the “board” was against the C pillar with
some adhesive and the light base / socket mounted on top of the board
helping to hold it in place. Then the headliner material covered all
that with the lens and bezel to finish it off. I believe Joe B.
answered the attachment of the liner itself nicely, thanks.
While on the insulation thing, there was also a sheet of maybe 3 / 8
inch thick non-backed insulation cemented to the underside of the
roof. I don’t know if this or the C pillar insulation is available or
not. But I will need it (or something) in the future. Does anyone else
know? Joe?

if i remember correctly they just press in to holes on the sides no
clips i just did mine a few months back and there were no clips
involved 2 small sprinds holding the rearmost bow from going forward,
and the bows is all there is,its quite a job to get the headliner
tight start at the front and work towards the back go from side to
side and keep pulling on the extra bow pockets attached to the
headliner using them as ropes to pull the slack out youll need to cut
them away from the headliner a few inches in from the end of  the
hoops  it took me 3 headliners in 3 different cars before i got mine
looking professionally installed theres a few little tricks that i
picked up watching someone who new how to do it, the sail panels are a
bi!%H and youll need about 25 small clips to keep clipping and
adjusting fom side to side from front all the way to the back when you
finally get it tight then you cement the edges and then reclip till
your glue dries good luck

Hi Steve,
Regarding your two questions for the headliner bows, yes, the bows
were touching the insulation pad to the inside of the roof helping to
hold the pad in place. As to the mounting location of the last
rear-most bow, this bow should have a unique clip at each end. It is
metal and rolled to a tubular shape and bent midway to nearly 90
degree with a black oxide finish. The bow rod slips into the open end
while the other (90) end is bent rounded to close. This end fits into
a (3/8”?) hole (the only hole) located in the 16” long recessed area
of the ‘C’ pillar (roof side frame) that runs at an angle following
the rear quarter window opening. Then of coarse the two spring wires
attach to the bow and above the rear window frame. This time I’m gonna
take a picture of this arrangement before I disassemble it again!
All set?



On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 5:43 PM, neal zimmerman
<neal.zimmerman@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I just ordered one for one of my cars, its gonna be my first ever
> install. My guess is you don't want the spray adhesive, but tube or
> brush on. I am sure all it is is rubber cement. You only do it around
> the edge. The center zones" float". I went to a shop and the quote was
> out of sight, ridiculous 500 dollars, and all the typical," u dont
> understand, this is very  complicated, blah, blah, blah."Sorry, I dont
> buy it. Anybody with half a brain, that can read directions, follow
> them to a tee, and prepares ,studies up and does several dry runs can
> do most anything. so tired of these car wizard guys trying to make
> their work sound more dificult than it is. theyre not rockets.
>
> Try this for starters- its from a Chevelle site, but they are all
> about the same-
>  http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161372
>
>  Look up on you tube also, theres a bunch of videos on there.
>
>  the final stage of tightening up is completed with a mister bottle
> and blow dryer
>  Neal Zimmerman, Eugene Oregon
>
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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