Re: T-bar install refresher course

["Stephen Andrachek" <s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Neil,

Your drive shaft and the U-joint have very small pieces that a big block 
will tear up quickly.  You need to have a new drive shaft made up with the 
heavy-duty U-joints and change the yoke that holds the U-joint from the 
driveshaft to the big one instead of the little one.

You will need to reinforce the frame, put in better rear springs,  different 
mounts, different radiator (bigger engine with more HP means more heat) and, 
if you haven't found out already, numerous other parts to make a V8 out of a 
six.  I did the same thing with the same type of car, a '62 Dart.  My 
friends are helping me out by installing the all-new shift and park cables 
and a new speedometer cable ($529 for three parts) and have fixed a leak in 
the trans.  I haven't had a ride all year and the car is almost ready.  I'm 
more than ready.  Got one set of slicks to burn off and another set ready to 
go on, brand-new.  They, when I have to pay another $400 for some street 
slicks, I learn to do easier pullouts like I want to use when racing 
someone.

It fun to dream, more fun to do it.  I hope your project comes of well and 
you have a lot of money and patience.  Not an impossible car to find, but in 
the north, (I'm in PA) we have to use a southern dry junk yard and take 
their word for the condition of the part, if you can even find one.  The 
part may not be as "perfect" as it had been described to you.  It might be 
worse than the one you already had.

The front end.  You can buy "B" body Tbars and install them and I imagine 
you know how to get the old ones off without ripping off some body parts.  I 
don't.  I do like the alterkation spring-over-coil setup for the front.  The 
whole thing is about $3,200.  If I was doing my car again and IF I had the 
money, I would put the whole thing on.  Its a nice kit with supposedly only 
minimun welding required.   Has rack and pinon steering and fits jut about 
any header.  Removes a lot of weight and makes the car handle a lot better 
too.   But there's the price and you have to do it yourself or pay someone 
to have it done or get it done for free if you can weld and have the 
equipment or a friend does.

Chick (I never could understand why I like '62 Dodges so much.)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "neal zimmerman" <neal.zimmerman@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 10:03 AM
Subject: T-bar install refresher course


I am gonna replace the t-bars in the 62 dart before I drop the new 440
in there. Reason is, i believe they might be the original slant 6
bars. The guy that installed the V8 K member might have just stuck the
old slant 6 bars back in. They look pretty skinny, and they have a red
hash mark on them.
  I have a larger pair from a 64 Polara, but they have just been
lying on the shelf for years. I cant remeber what the rules are about
installing T-bars ( right/left, front/back)
 Thanky
 Neal Zimmerman, Eugene Oregon

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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