Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light Switch - and Electrical question before that!)

[rll <rlipinski3@xxxxxxx>]

The front brakes do most of the stopping.....

When a raced my 65 fury One police surplus car, i had a hydraulic valve 
to shut off the back brakes
while at the track...

I did not have enough brakes to make the first turn off after the finish 
line so i just let it roll to the end.

Mel Larson's Drag Strip in Phoenix Az...late 60's before I was asked to 
go on my army vacation.

On master cylinders, found it both ways. A dual cylinder rebuild kit was 
$25.00, I could get a rebuilt
master cylinder for $14.95.

My old truck...single cylinder master was $79.00 dollars, the rebuild 
kit was $5.95. So I bought the kit,
a hone to clean up the bore, and was still under $20 into the project.

Our 65 satellite project car got the front disks and dual cylinder and 
lines from a 73 dart.

rob/ferts/phx

On 6/12/11 8:05 PM, Dave64 wrote:
> Thanks for the replies.  I know the fronts do most of the braking, but I haven't had a bit of trouble with the larger rear drums.  No real difference from when I had the same size all the way around.  The reason I have 11" on the back now is I swapped in a later year rearend last spring.  I may eventually put discs on the front.
>
> Ollie - thanks for your comments.  That was another one of my thoughts - to go to a dual.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> '64 Belvedere 2DHT
> 318 Poly, Push Button Auto
> Originally Florida A/C Car
>
>
> --- On Sun, 6/12/11, Ollie<satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>  wrote:
>
> > From: Ollie<satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> > If it is a single bowl I would
> > surely  replace it with a dual. Just for piece of mind
> > if any other reason. Get a good one at O'Rielys and it is
> > life time warranty.
> > Ollie
> >
> >
> >
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light Switch - and
> > Electrical question before that!)
> >
> > Another option would be to get it sleeved in brass (or
> > maybe it's
> > bronze) or stainless and then put in an original size
> > rebuild kit.
> >
> > On 6/12/2011 6:37 PM, Mike&  Deb wrote:
> > > Hi Dave,
> > > I would rebuild the original if the bore is not too
> > pitted. You can hone out some pitting and a slight amount
> > will not adversely affect braking action, but deep pits will
> > require a different master cylinder. I have bought rebuilts
> > that wouldn't work-so if you buy a reman- buy good quality.
> > You shouldn't have mismatched drum sizes on your car. The
> > front brakes do the majority of the work so they typically
> > have a larger friction area than the rear. Are the rears
> > locking up before the fronts?
> > > Mike LeFevre

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