I wanted to go with an OEM style harness but I couldn't justify the expense. I know it would have made things much easier too but I'm on a tight budget, heck my budget has a budget. I was able to get the EZwire kit for $99.00. It's more on the web but I live close enough that I drove to Deltona and got their walkin price. Seemed like a good deal to me. Michael Phelps Sent from my iPhone On Apr 9, 2011, at 2:47 PM, Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > I changed up the header a tad. I bought the under dash wiring kit from Year One for my 64 Plymouth Sport Fury and it DOES have the bulkhead connector. It's supposed to be correct, but before installing it, I'll do what the instructions say to do: Compare every wire to the original harness to be sure it's identical in terms of connections and that the wires are the same color as the original. It was expensive, but they had a 20% off/free shipping offer at the end of 2010, so bit the bullet. > /Butch/Ferndale, WA > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mike Phelps" <mikeph@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Saturday, April 9, 2011 10:50:18 AM > Subject: Re: Power to the new harness > > Good info. So I should be able to keep the ammeter if I solder the connection. The gauge works but I don't need a fire. > > Michael Phelps > Sent from my iPhone > > On Apr 9, 2011, at 10:54 AM, Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > >> >> I have talked about this issue with Jeff carter at JC Auto, one of our vendors in the home page. He tells me that the ammeter and wiring fry because of the poorly designed connectors, primarily at the dash connections, sometimes at the bulkhead. He's been doing oem electronic restorations for more than 35 years. He solders all the internal connections in the ammeter as part of his service, says he's never had a report of a failure. I am having him do both my 64 Sport Furys. >> (sent from my mobile) >> /butch >> >> ----- Reply message ----- >> From: "Rich Kinsley" <rlkinsley@xxxxxxxxx> >> Date: Sat, Apr 9, 2011 6:13 am >> Subject: Power to the new harness >> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> >> >> >> Apparently you have been patient with your project. That makes for a >> good product in the end. I realize your bulkhead connector is just for >> show and of course it will be no problem to you. It's a good way to keep >> the original look without the danger. >> >> I didn't even look for a similar looking volt meter. I just took out the >> ammeter, filled the space with a decal and stuck a Summit volt meter in >> the place where a clock would be. I understand your desire for >> originality and I bet something can be accomplished along that line. I >> wonder if you could swap out the face plate with the workings of a >> voltmeter? You did a great job on the gauges so I bet you could figure >> out something like that if you put your mind to it. >> >> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies >> >> >> ===================================================================== >> Michael Phelps wrote: >>> >>> Thanks Rich, is there a good correct looking replacement for the >>> ammeter? And in this case the bulkhead connector is just for show, no >>> connections, just unbroken wire. I guess I could finish it all but I >>> would also love to hear that engine start ASAP. Basically I just want to >>> put power to it and hear the starter engage. Actually starting her is >>> still a couple weeks away. >>> >>> Michael Phelps >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Apr 8, 2011, at 7:39 PM, Rich Kinsley <rlkinsley@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Well you shouldn't have any problems as long as you have the loose ends >>>> insulated so they don't ground on something. Personally I finished it >>>> all before I hooked up the battery. I guess you kept the ammeter? That's >>>> >>>> the first thing I ditched. All the current goes through it so it's the >>>> weak link. The bulkhead connector and the ammeter are the major causes >>>> of fires. You are doing a good careful job so you should be fine. Let >>>> 'er rip. >>>> >>>> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies >>>> ====================================================================> >>>> Mike Phelps wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Hello all. I think I've got the engine all wired up. I've gone back and >>>>> forth and back again over the diagrams and I think i'm ready to put >>>>> power to it. When I restores my instrument panel I checked it by hooking >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> a battery charger to it and it worked well. Shouldn't the engine wiring >>>>> work the same? I just want to put power to it and make sure it dosn't >>>>> burn up. Then I'll feel like I can move on to the dash wiring. Any >>>>> thoughts? >>>>> BTW, if anyone is interested here is a link to an album of the >>>>> restoration process so far. >>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=116989096452645998816&target=ALBUM&id=5592292251894953025&authkey=Gv1sRgCKnwtI_u85bRlwE&feat=email >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I hope this link works, it's the first time I've posted it. >>>>> >>>>> Mike Phelps >>>>> 1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Convertible >>>>> 361/727 >>>>> 2004 Hemi Ram Quad Cab >>>>> 2004 Chrysler 300M 3.5HO >>>>> 2004 PT Cruiser 2.4 Turbo >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies >>>> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-kinsley64polara.html >>>> >>>> >>>> ---- >>>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- >>>> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and >>>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended >>>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will >>>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the >>>> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! >>>> >>>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: >>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and >>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. >>>> >> >> >> >> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies >> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-kinsley64polara.html >> >> >> ---- >> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! >> >> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: >> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. >> >> 6‰í{i¢»b¢{(~Øb²g¬±¨…«Þmç§ é¨½ç >> >> >> ---- >> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! >> >> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: >> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. >> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > >