Re: FINALLY!!!

[Stan Kafouse <skafouse@xxxxxxxxx>]

I didnt prime the oil system That would have solved my problem, try priming yours. With no or litle oil the valve timing is all over the place form cylinder to cylinder. Check all variables such as timing chain stretch. Pull dist cap make it or observe rotor. turn crank and see how far crank rotates before dist moves. Bushing under dist can wear also. Check cap for crcks or try another rotor also. Bent pushrods pull covers and see if all valves are moving the same. Rinds maybe stuck. Doing a 340 now that sat so long cylinders rusted, rings rusted to walls also and lost there tension. Valve springs maybe weak also.

--- On Mon, 4/4/11, MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: FINALLY!!!
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Monday, April 4, 2011, 5:05 PM
> 
> Stan, I suppose that could be a  possibility. If the
> hyd lifters were 
> takeing several minutes to pump up  Now that it will
> start, I willl take 
> notice of that hanks...................MO
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Stan Kafouse" <skafouse@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 9:51 AM
> Subject: Re: FINALLY!!!
> 
> 
> Did you run the valves? If it sat for a long time the
> lifters need to pump 
> up again. Had a new 500 caddy that ran horrible then the
> lifters filled up 
> and no more popping spitting etc.
> 
> --- On Mon, 4/4/11, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> 
> > From: Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: FINALLY!!!
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Monday, April 4, 2011, 2:09 AM
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > Good news indeed!
> >
> > You were indefatigable in your search for the problem
> and
> > it paid off.
> >
> > Is the fuel fresh or is it months old?
> >
> > Gary P.
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "MO ( Steve Mick)"
> > <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 4:46 PM
> > Subject: FINALLY!!!
> >
> >
> > >
> > > WWWHHHOOOOOO---HHHAAAAA I got my 64 Sport
> > Fury(383) to start and run on it's own. No battery
> > jumper or spritzing in gas in the carb. I did not
> have
> > a AH-HA! smokeing gun moment during the whole
> > ordeal. This Fury had been used as a drag car, and
> > when the former owner decided to sell it. I think he
> took
> > off the good ignition and carb and put some things he
> had
> > laying around back on it. There were so many things
> wrong he
> > prolly got sick of it and then I came along with some
> cash
> > in hand. Some rare times it would start when you let
> > off the key switch and then run fairly well. for a
> short
> > time. I am somewhat good at diagnosis but it stymied
> > me! I knew nothing about Nopar electronic ignition or
> > how to trace down an ignition problem with them. So I
> went
> > back to a rebuilt points distributor. No go. I
> > messed around with jumper wires and such that I can't
> > remember the sequence of what I did. I know I learned
> > what a balladst resister does and how it works now. I
> got
> > some wireing diagrams and started sorting out the
> jumble of
> > wires. I found that the hot wire to the ballast was
> the
> > wrong one. It would shut off the power to it when the
> engine
> > was cranking. So I found the wire that remained hot
> when
> > cranking the starter. and hooked it to the input side
> of the
> > ballast he engine would run with a boost of gas to
> > start it, but after a short while, would die. I messed
> with
> > the timeing but had to guess as the engine would not
> run
> > long enough to know when it was close. Rebuilt dist
> > did not have hardly any point gap . Set that, no go.
> > Changed out the old MsSD coil for one that does not
> need a
> > external ballast resister. No go. Took off the 3310
> Hlley
> > carb and someone had put the accelerator pump diaphram
> in
> > upside down! AAHH-HAA!----No go. Put in new
> > points and condensor, no go. Had plenty of spark at
> the
> > wire???? It would start but popped
> > backfired puked . Has to be the carb. I bought a Holly
> 3310
> > carb at a swap meet that suppossedly been rebuilt and
> on the
> > shelf for a long time. I had to transfer some parts
> from the
> > first Holley It would then start but still popped and
> > backfired occasionally. So then I thought the plug gap
> would
> > have been wider for the elet. ign. so I TOOK OUT THE
> PLUGS,
> > CLEANED THEM AND RESET THE GAP. ( caps not
> > intended) Man ! what a PITA to change those
> > plugs with headers !!! The engine started right up,
> > might have been a combination of getting the carb
> soaked up
> > with gas and the plugs.
> > >
> > > At first the engine still popped and puked back
> when
> > cold, but after a while when warmes up better, it
> started
> > running smoother. . I stopped for the day so didn't
> get the
> > carb finer tuned.
> > >
> > > Question is: Is this cold missfire and puking
> back
> > from two lean a low speed fuel mixture? My
> > manual choke is not hooked up. Any other things that
> > could still be a problem? Thanks for your
> > input...........................MO
> > >
> > >
> > > {Steve Mick}
> > > http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> > >
> > > ----
> > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest
> to
> > only one person -- directly to that person.
> > I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as
> well
> > as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient,
> > not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice
> will
> > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail
> and
> > fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> > >
> > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one
> > person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
> > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
> other
> > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
> to the
> > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your
> > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
> the
> > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>